If you read my previous post, you now know that you don't necessarily need to run out and purchase a special eye cream just to hydrate the area. However, since the skin around the eyes is thinner, it absorbs product more readily. As Mariella commented on my last post, using a product on the eyes that is too rich can cause tiny white bumps, called milia, to form. It should be noted that even eye creams can cause this if they're not designed for your skin type.
You can reduce the chances of this happening with this simple application method. Moisturizer, whether you're using eye cream or just your daily facial lotion, should not be placed any closer to the eye than the orbital bone- the circular bone that makes up your eye socket. A fool proof way of doing this is to apply the moisturizer in a triangle pattern to the bone around the eye- use no more than a small, pea-sized dab for BOTH eyes. Apply one dot to the brow-bone above the pupil, one on the bone below the pupil, and one on the outer corner, again, on the actual bone. Use your ring finger to gently pat the product into place, and that's it! Since the skin on your eyes is paper thin, it will literally pull the moisture into the areas that need it.
As an added bonus, you may notice less eyeshadow creasing and mascara smudging, since too much eye cream and incorrect placement are often culprits that cause these isses!
Friday, August 7, 2009
Beauty Revelation: Eye Creams
Recently, while having a discussion on the merits of eye creams, something occurred to me that had never crossed my mind. Well, perhaps it did flicker in every once and again, but my years of training shut it out. I had asked Cora (YouTube's VintageorTacky) why she didn't mention using an eye cream in a video she did on her skin care routine. As we all know, the skin around the eye area is thinner than the skin elsewhere on the face, making it more sensitive. This is why the skin around your eyes is usually first to show signs of stress, sun damage and age. Cora's answer: "I've read a lot of info saying that there is noting innately special about eye cream..."
This got me thinking, and reviewing ingredient lists in my head. I did some quick research and discovered something that I should have noticed a long time ago: most of the ingredients in my eye creams were the same type of ingredients as those in my facial moisturizer! Now, I've been trying to get myself in the habit of using an eye cream for the past 7 or 8 years, and for some reason, it's part of my routine that never sticks. I can use 3 treatment serums and 2 moisturizers during one application, but for some reason I can not remember to put on one of the 10 eye creams I own. Now, I know why. My mind was secretly rebelling against the establishment that has been selling us 1/2 ounce sized jars of moisturizer, telling us that it's special for the eye area, and charging the same price as they do for a 1.7 ounce jar of face cream!
I thought that I had to be missing something, and I needed expert back up, so I wrote a quick e-mail to renowned dermatologist Dr. Jeffrey Benabio. I explained my question, posited my hypothesis, and hit send, only half expecting a reply. Dr. Benabio has been featured in Allure, Glamour, and O, The Oprah Magazine; to expect that he would reply to a lone little beauty blogger would have been silly. The very next morning, however, I got my reply. It was simple and concise, and I will reprint the good doctor's answer here, in it's entirety so that there is no mistake:
Jessica:
The difference between eye cream and a facial moisturizer are insignificant. The only real difference is the label.
-J
There you have it folks. Don't waste your money. Use whatever the hell you want on your eyes, it makes no difference. OK, so maybe that's taking it too far, but I do feel I owe an apology to the hundreds, nay, thousands of women I've sold eye cream to. If there's one thing that makes me feel a bit better, it's this: the concerns a woman has about her eye area may not be the same concerns she has about the rest of her face. In other words, don't expect your facial moisturizer to get rid of under eye puffiness or wrinkles unless it is designed to do those things for your face.
So what have we learned today? If your skin care concerns are consistent from your eyes to the rest of your face, save yourself a wad of cash and let your facial moisturizer pull double duty. If, on the other hand, you have separate concerns for your face and eyes, you may want to stick to your tiny-weeny little jar of eye goodness. Better yet, find a big old jar of facial moisturizer that treats your eye area concerns, and pick it up instead- the price per ounce will be a much better deal- just think of it as buying in bulk!
This got me thinking, and reviewing ingredient lists in my head. I did some quick research and discovered something that I should have noticed a long time ago: most of the ingredients in my eye creams were the same type of ingredients as those in my facial moisturizer! Now, I've been trying to get myself in the habit of using an eye cream for the past 7 or 8 years, and for some reason, it's part of my routine that never sticks. I can use 3 treatment serums and 2 moisturizers during one application, but for some reason I can not remember to put on one of the 10 eye creams I own. Now, I know why. My mind was secretly rebelling against the establishment that has been selling us 1/2 ounce sized jars of moisturizer, telling us that it's special for the eye area, and charging the same price as they do for a 1.7 ounce jar of face cream!
I thought that I had to be missing something, and I needed expert back up, so I wrote a quick e-mail to renowned dermatologist Dr. Jeffrey Benabio. I explained my question, posited my hypothesis, and hit send, only half expecting a reply. Dr. Benabio has been featured in Allure, Glamour, and O, The Oprah Magazine; to expect that he would reply to a lone little beauty blogger would have been silly. The very next morning, however, I got my reply. It was simple and concise, and I will reprint the good doctor's answer here, in it's entirety so that there is no mistake:
Jessica:
The difference between eye cream and a facial moisturizer are insignificant. The only real difference is the label.
There you have it folks. Don't waste your money. Use whatever the hell you want on your eyes, it makes no difference. OK, so maybe that's taking it too far, but I do feel I owe an apology to the hundreds, nay, thousands of women I've sold eye cream to. If there's one thing that makes me feel a bit better, it's this: the concerns a woman has about her eye area may not be the same concerns she has about the rest of her face. In other words, don't expect your facial moisturizer to get rid of under eye puffiness or wrinkles unless it is designed to do those things for your face.
So what have we learned today? If your skin care concerns are consistent from your eyes to the rest of your face, save yourself a wad of cash and let your facial moisturizer pull double duty. If, on the other hand, you have separate concerns for your face and eyes, you may want to stick to your tiny-weeny little jar of eye goodness. Better yet, find a big old jar of facial moisturizer that treats your eye area concerns, and pick it up instead- the price per ounce will be a much better deal- just think of it as buying in bulk!
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Illamasqua Store List
We've all waited long enough, so here it is: the full list (for now...) of US Sephora stores that will be carrying the Illamasqua line. The roll-outs will begin in mid September and will take no more than a month to complete. So without further ado (though just saying that is further ado, isn't it?) here's the list:
Hopefully you live near one one of these stores. As for me, it looks like a road trip will be necessary, but what a great excuse! Thanks to Alex from Illamasqua for the info- it sounds like the brand had a phenominal launch in Times Square, they were the the second highest selling brand throughout the whole store that weekend!
BTW, for all of the latest news from the brand, as well as tips, tricks, artist advice and even product swatches, check out their official blog. Happy shopping!
Also, Thanks to my fiance Brad for taking the picture (above) of the brand new Sephora at 5 Times Square, the day before it's grand opening! He actually stopped to swatch some things for me (and therefore, you) but they were closed for their private launch party! Thanks for trying, Brad!
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Beauty Buzz Words: Fragrance Concentrations
The forms fragrances come in are various, here's an easy guide to the most common types that you'll see. These terms refer to the concentration of the oils that compose the fragrance. The more oil a scent contains, the less you need and the longer it will last on your body.
When fragrance shopping, take into account that while a mist may be less expensive than a perfume, you're more likely to spray more mist, and you'll have to touch up more often throughout the day. The average body mist user goes through a bottle every 3 months. The same scent in perfume form is likely to last over a year, simply because it is not being reapplied as often.
In order of lightest (least concentrated) to heaviest (most concentrated):
Body Mist or Splash has the lightest concentration of oil (anywhere from about 1-3%) Mists are comprised of about mostly of the carrier base, usually alcohol. (Eau Fraiche is a mist that is generally alcohol free, but contains a similar amount of fragrance oils.)
Cologne More common to men's fragrance terminology, a cologne (or Eau de Cologne) is only slightly more concentrated than a mist, having around 5% fragrance oil. Though women's fragrances aren't generally marketed as colognes, many fragrance houses make lighter (usually limited edition) "summer" versions of their popular permanent fragrances that would fit into this category.
Eau de Toilette (EdT) Typically the lightest version of a scent that a fine house of fragrance will produce, an EdT has anywhere from 5-15% aromatic compounds. If you like to layer your fragrance by using scented shower gels and lotions, then an EdT is a good way to ensure you don't overload, especially if your favorite is on the bolder side.
Eau de Parfum (EdP) is one of the most concentrated forms of a fragrance that you can buy, with oil concentrations up to around 20%. Because of variations in the formulation from one brand to another, the difference between Eau de Parfum and Parfum may be negligible; indeed, an EdP from one line may actually be more potent than a perfume from another.
Parfum or Perfume is the most concentrated version of a fragrance. Parfums usually contain around 20% aromatics, but can contain upwards of 40%. As I mentioned above, many modern parfums are essentially the same as their Eau de Parfum counterparts. Those that do have a higher oil concentration are usually sold in a stopper bottle (not a spray) and should feel slightly oily on the skin.
When fragrance shopping, take into account that while a mist may be less expensive than a perfume, you're more likely to spray more mist, and you'll have to touch up more often throughout the day. The average body mist user goes through a bottle every 3 months. The same scent in perfume form is likely to last over a year, simply because it is not being reapplied as often.
In order of lightest (least concentrated) to heaviest (most concentrated):
Body Mist or Splash has the lightest concentration of oil (anywhere from about 1-3%) Mists are comprised of about mostly of the carrier base, usually alcohol. (Eau Fraiche is a mist that is generally alcohol free, but contains a similar amount of fragrance oils.)
Cologne More common to men's fragrance terminology, a cologne (or Eau de Cologne) is only slightly more concentrated than a mist, having around 5% fragrance oil. Though women's fragrances aren't generally marketed as colognes, many fragrance houses make lighter (usually limited edition) "summer" versions of their popular permanent fragrances that would fit into this category.
Eau de Toilette (EdT) Typically the lightest version of a scent that a fine house of fragrance will produce, an EdT has anywhere from 5-15% aromatic compounds. If you like to layer your fragrance by using scented shower gels and lotions, then an EdT is a good way to ensure you don't overload, especially if your favorite is on the bolder side.
Eau de Parfum (EdP) is one of the most concentrated forms of a fragrance that you can buy, with oil concentrations up to around 20%. Because of variations in the formulation from one brand to another, the difference between Eau de Parfum and Parfum may be negligible; indeed, an EdP from one line may actually be more potent than a perfume from another.
Parfum or Perfume is the most concentrated version of a fragrance. Parfums usually contain around 20% aromatics, but can contain upwards of 40%. As I mentioned above, many modern parfums are essentially the same as their Eau de Parfum counterparts. Those that do have a higher oil concentration are usually sold in a stopper bottle (not a spray) and should feel slightly oily on the skin.
Monday, August 3, 2009
This Week's Sales:
Annik Goutal Fragrances, MD Skincare, Tarte and More...
Strut on over to Gilt Groupe at noon today and check out Tarte Cosmetics- I've been ruing the fact that I passed on a set of their famous cheek stains the last time they made rounds on the sale sites, so I'll be on the look out this time around! If at-home pulsed-light treatments sound like a good idea to you (I'm not so sure, myself!) check out Baby Quasar on Wednesday, August 5th. Also on Wednesday, Gilt features Clark's Botanicals. After his son was in a debilitating accident, Dr. Harold Clark combined his background in both traditional and homeopathic medicine to developed effective treatments for his son's unbalanced skin when even prescription products failed.
To my great excitement, this week HauteLook will feature high fragrance house Annick Goutal. I dreamt of her Eau d'Hadrien for about 2 years before I broke down and bought it, now the only thing I don't love about it is having to try to pronounce the name when someone asks me what I'm wearing! Check it out on Tuesday, August 4th at 11am EDT. On Thursday, August 6th, stock up on your skincare needs with MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross.
Oh, and BTW, since shipping tends to be a bit hefty on these sites, HauteLook is helping by offering free shipping on everything you purchase until August 12th, after your initial purchase. This means that you pay shipping once no matter how many times you shop!
Of course, these sales are by invitation only, if you don't have an account yet, consider this your personal invite from me! It's totally free, and you can join now- just follow the link by clicking on the name of the site! As always, I do my best to list all of the sales that I know of, but since they are subject to change at any time, make sure you're following e on Twitter for the most up to date sales and invites.
To my great excitement, this week HauteLook will feature high fragrance house Annick Goutal. I dreamt of her Eau d'Hadrien for about 2 years before I broke down and bought it, now the only thing I don't love about it is having to try to pronounce the name when someone asks me what I'm wearing! Check it out on Tuesday, August 4th at 11am EDT. On Thursday, August 6th, stock up on your skincare needs with MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross.
Oh, and BTW, since shipping tends to be a bit hefty on these sites, HauteLook is helping by offering free shipping on everything you purchase until August 12th, after your initial purchase. This means that you pay shipping once no matter how many times you shop!
Of course, these sales are by invitation only, if you don't have an account yet, consider this your personal invite from me! It's totally free, and you can join now- just follow the link by clicking on the name of the site! As always, I do my best to list all of the sales that I know of, but since they are subject to change at any time, make sure you're following e on Twitter for the most up to date sales and invites.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Top 5 Fragrances (that I don’t want you to wear!)
Having worked in cosmetics for as long as I have, I’ve amassed quite a fragrance library. I have limited edition Escadas and huge bottles of Chanels that sit untouched. I honestly feel I own a fragrance for every mood, season and outfit- I even have one that feels distinctly purple. The list below is a compilation of my favorite scents, the ones that I travel with and buy time and time again. These scents are the ones that define me; knowing them gives you, the reader, a direct insight into who I am.
1. Lolita Lempicka- my all time favorite, signature scent. I actually considered not listing this, because I want it to be mine- all mine! Top notes of Ivy and Anise Seed dry down to combine with middle notes of Violet, ending with creamy Vanilla and Musk base notes. Sweet but not cloying, Lolita reminds me of a grown up version of cotton candy.
2. Gucci Rush- Quite frankly, this smells like sex to me. A sultry, not too woody oriental, Rush was my first “grown up” fragrance- a step away from the light, fruity florals of my youth, though there are florals present- notably South African Freesia and Madras Jasmine. These top notes combine with the pop and spice of Coriander Seed which lay on top of an unmistakable base of Java Patchouli, Vanilla and Bourbon Vetiver. Gucci Rush is one of the many reasons I look forward to fall, though it’s too good to restrict to cool weather- it’s overt womanliness makes it the perfect date night scent.
3. Thierry Mugler’s Angel- Arguably the most popular or my favorites, and not to be confused with the powdery sandalwood of the Victoria’s Secret Angel fragrances, Thierry Mugler’s star shaped masterpiece is a groundbreaking elixir of Vanilla, Caramel, Chocolate and Patchouli. It's earthy but edible vibe marked the launch of a new fragrance catagory, called gourmand, and was the first to take a complete departure from floral notes.
4. Chanel Chance- Though many purists would argue for the classics, I’ve always found Chanel’s scents a bit too…let’s say “vintage”…for my tastes. When Chance debuted in 2002, it was described as the classic house’s “decidedly young” scent, but make no mistake- it’s still Chanel. Chance is chic and energetic: a complex blend of Pink Pepper, Hyacinth, White Musk and crisp Citrus notes which, at it’s Patchouli and Fresh Vetiver heart manages to feel luxe and fresh at the same time.
5. Miss Dior Cherie- with notes like Strawberry Leaves, Caramelized Popcorn, and Green Tangerine, you might imagine Cherie to smell like a teenager’s lip gloss, but factor in the soft woodiness of Crystalline Musk and the herbal notes of Pink Jasmine, and you’re left with a fresh floral that is grown-up but unpretentious. Somewhat similar to Chance, with less of a citrus accord, Miss Dior Cherie is the perfect scent to dress up a pair of jeans.
And one I’m loving right now:
Sud Pacifique Vanille Pineapple- This one sounds like exactly what it is- bright frothy Pineapple mixed with the smoothness of vanilla in a way that gives the scent warmth without too much sweetness. Perfect for summer, but like the season, the scent is all to fleeting. Since the Pineapple is the sole top note, it is very obvious at the onset, but fades quickly, giving way to a velvety vanilla crème and coconut milk base that just feels like an island vacation (and makes me very thirsty!)
1. Lolita Lempicka- my all time favorite, signature scent. I actually considered not listing this, because I want it to be mine- all mine! Top notes of Ivy and Anise Seed dry down to combine with middle notes of Violet, ending with creamy Vanilla and Musk base notes. Sweet but not cloying, Lolita reminds me of a grown up version of cotton candy.
2. Gucci Rush- Quite frankly, this smells like sex to me. A sultry, not too woody oriental, Rush was my first “grown up” fragrance- a step away from the light, fruity florals of my youth, though there are florals present- notably South African Freesia and Madras Jasmine. These top notes combine with the pop and spice of Coriander Seed which lay on top of an unmistakable base of Java Patchouli, Vanilla and Bourbon Vetiver. Gucci Rush is one of the many reasons I look forward to fall, though it’s too good to restrict to cool weather- it’s overt womanliness makes it the perfect date night scent.
3. Thierry Mugler’s Angel- Arguably the most popular or my favorites, and not to be confused with the powdery sandalwood of the Victoria’s Secret Angel fragrances, Thierry Mugler’s star shaped masterpiece is a groundbreaking elixir of Vanilla, Caramel, Chocolate and Patchouli. It's earthy but edible vibe marked the launch of a new fragrance catagory, called gourmand, and was the first to take a complete departure from floral notes.
4. Chanel Chance- Though many purists would argue for the classics, I’ve always found Chanel’s scents a bit too…let’s say “vintage”…for my tastes. When Chance debuted in 2002, it was described as the classic house’s “decidedly young” scent, but make no mistake- it’s still Chanel. Chance is chic and energetic: a complex blend of Pink Pepper, Hyacinth, White Musk and crisp Citrus notes which, at it’s Patchouli and Fresh Vetiver heart manages to feel luxe and fresh at the same time.
5. Miss Dior Cherie- with notes like Strawberry Leaves, Caramelized Popcorn, and Green Tangerine, you might imagine Cherie to smell like a teenager’s lip gloss, but factor in the soft woodiness of Crystalline Musk and the herbal notes of Pink Jasmine, and you’re left with a fresh floral that is grown-up but unpretentious. Somewhat similar to Chance, with less of a citrus accord, Miss Dior Cherie is the perfect scent to dress up a pair of jeans.
And one I’m loving right now:
Sud Pacifique Vanille Pineapple- This one sounds like exactly what it is- bright frothy Pineapple mixed with the smoothness of vanilla in a way that gives the scent warmth without too much sweetness. Perfect for summer, but like the season, the scent is all to fleeting. Since the Pineapple is the sole top note, it is very obvious at the onset, but fades quickly, giving way to a velvety vanilla crème and coconut milk base that just feels like an island vacation (and makes me very thirsty!)
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Illamasqua Swatches!
Well, now that it's here in the US, many of you may be wondering what all of the hubbub is over Illamasqua Cosmetics. This cult favorite is full of unique shades and textures- here's a few for you to mull over until you can make it to Times Square! Click on any image to see a super close up, and stay tuned for full looks and reviews featuring Illamasqua products!
Left: Light Liquid Foundation 105
Right: Rich Liquid Foundation 135
Creme Blush in Rude
Powder Eyeshadow in Vapour
Left: without base
Right: with base (Urban Decay Primer Potion)
Top: Sheer Lipgloss in Torture
Bottom: Intense Lipgloss in Absorb
Liner in Cane
Glosses on my actual lips (both me, the difference in skin tone is just different lighting!)
Top: Absorb, Bottom: Torture
Left: Light Liquid Foundation 105
Right: Rich Liquid Foundation 135
Creme Blush in Rude
Powder Eyeshadow in Vapour
Left: without base
Right: with base (Urban Decay Primer Potion)
Top: Sheer Lipgloss in Torture
Bottom: Intense Lipgloss in Absorb
Liner in Cane
Glosses on my actual lips (both me, the difference in skin tone is just different lighting!)
Top: Absorb, Bottom: Torture
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