This Week's Sales: Philosophy, Erno Laszlo, Juice Beauty and more!

Look for their famous Hope in A Jar moisturizer, my personal favorite cleanser, Purity, or some of their (almost) good-enough-to-eat scented body care when Philosophy goes on sale this Wednesday, August 26th at Rue La La. The sale begins at 11AM EDT, so don't be late!

Also on Wednesday, HauteLook hosts Juice Beauty. Made with up to 95% certified organic ingredients, Juice uses their own patent pending Organic Juice Base instead of water to nourish and protect skin of all types. Of course, you still have time to get some great deals on Kings & Queens body care, an off-shoot of Greek gift-of-the-gods line Korres. The sale goes until tonight at 2AM EDT, so saunter on over and check it out.

At Gilt this week, check out Malin+Goetz on Thursday, August 27th. This NY based apothecary and lab is a fusion of natural and high tech designed to treat various skin concerns with no added dyes or fragrances and hip, minimalist packaging that appeals to both men and women alike! On Friday the 28th, 29 Cosmetics offers up a unique concept- color cosmetics that offer the antioxidant protection of grape seed oil straight from the Napa Valley. Bonus points for anyone who has noticed that founder Lydia Mondavi shares a surname with a well known California winery! (She's married to the grandson of wine mogul Robert Mondavi.) Last, but certainly not least, check out legendary skincare pioneer Dr. Erno Laszlo's eponymous line. Laszlo is to skin care as Chanel is to chain link and tweed. A favorite of legends like Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo, this old school line and it's trademark black soap epitomizes glamour in a skincare ritual. Gilt sales all start at Noon, EDT.

Look for their famous Hope in A Jar moisturizer, my personal favorite cleanser, Purity, or some of their (almost) good-enough-to-eat scented body care when Philosophy goes on sale this Wednesday, August 26th at Rue La La. The sale begins at 11AM EDT, so don't be late!

Green and Mean:Pushing "Natural" Cosmetics

Have you started to feel the pressure of going green with your beauty routine? Are you wondering if your choice of shampoo is poisoning you, or if your lipstick is ruining the earth? Or are you, like me, sick of having to wade through the high waters of toxic misinformation permeating our society at the moment?

In this case, I'm referring to cosmetics companies who are trying to guilt us into using their products with all the finesse of a Jewish mother of 4 (or a Catholic mother of 8) by insinuating that their "natural" skin care products have an advantage over skincare that is chemically engineered. Case in point: Burt's Bees.

If you've flipped through a beauty magazine in the past few months, then perhaps you've seen their current ad campaign, which focuses on using scare tactics to imply that using natural products is somehow better for you. They do so by juxtaposing the benefits of their product's key ingredient with more commonly found ingredients.

Let us consider the advertisement for Burt's Bees Replenishing Lip Balm which pits it's beeswax base against petrolatum, a base found in tons of popular lip soothers, from ChapStick to La Mer-even cult favorite Rosebud Salve. (In fact, most major companies, including MAC, Estee Lauder, Murad, Cargo, Laura Mercier, Philosophy, Peter Thomas Roth, and more, make lip products that are petrolatum based.) According to the ad, beeswax forms a "hydrating barrier that keeps lips moisturized" while petrolatum "moisturizes with an oil based film." Notice how Burt's uses nice words like "hydrating barrier" to describe their lip balm ingredient, but describes the competitor's as an oily "film"? Really, it's semantics, but by using a word commonly associated with the grime on your bathroom wall, they attempt to plant a negative bias in the consumer's head without using any pertinent factual information.

I represent no company, and am not selling either product, so I'm not scared to give you the facts. Oil is not bad. Skin is naturally moisturized and protected by the oil that is produced in our very own bodies. Petrolatum has been proven safe, gentle and effective in study after study. It repairs the barrier of damaged skin and helps to reduce inflammation and water loss, and it does so about as well as the skin's own natural defenses. Beeswax is a thickener that contains some emollient properties. Like petrolatum, it helps to seal in the skin's own moisture, which makes the skin feel softer and more soothed. Unlike petrolatum, it does not help to heal the skin or do anything to reduce inflammation.

Another comparison that Burt's Bees makes is that beeswax is "naturally replenishing", while petrolatum is non-renewable. I'd challenge this notion by pointing out that there have been alarming declines of bee populations in recent years; since we don't know why bees are disappearing, we don't know how to fix it, and thus, can not really say that beeswax is infinitely renewable. Petrolatum is a by-product of oil refining (or in Burtspeak: "derived from crude oil") which means that as long as we're drilling for oil, we'll have petrolatum. As much as I'd like to think we're close to independence from fossil fuels, I think we all know that's far from a reality.

Another tactic Burt's Bees uses is comparing it's apples to the competitor's oranges. The ad for their Naturally Ageless Day Lotion compares their key ingredient, pomegranate, to dimethicone, which is found in many leading anti-aging products on the market. Burt's tries to turn you against products that contain dimethicone by pointing out that while pomegranate is a powerful antioxidant, dimethicone is a silicone "film" (there's that nasty word again!) that temporarily fills in lines. No arguments here; both statements are factual, but the side by side comparison is meant to lead us, the consumers, to the impression that the Naturally Ageless Lotion protects the skin while the competitor's offering is filled with worthless ingredients that only offer a temporary pay-off.

In fact, dimethicone is added to anti-aging products for the exact benefits that Burt's Bees condemns- it makes the skin soft and smooth, fills in pores and fine lines, and helps to lock in moisture. It is not, as is implied in Burt's advertising, added to serums to provide protection. Any anti-aging product worth it's salt has SEPARATE antioxidants added to fight the damaging effects of the environment. Some, like Murad Energizing Pomegranate Moisturizer SPF 15 and Cosmedicine Global Health Face UVA/UVB, SPF 30 use both dimethicone and pomegranate extract, proving that the two ingredients are not mutually exclusive.

While there are several more versions of the "natural-vs-chemical"campaign that I could debate, I don't want to belabor the point. Sure, I could talk about the ad where they compare the buttermilk in their Baby Bee lotion to parabens, which are preservatives. I might ask why you would even want a lotion that contains a volatile dairy ingredient that has no proven benefits. I'd probably point out that preservatives keep products from spoiling- something I would want to ensure, especially on my baby's delicate skin. I could tell you that this baby lotion that Burt's Bees calls "gentle" contains Sodium Borate, an ingredient that was determined by Cosmetic Ingredient Review to be "Not safe for use on infant skin." But hey, it's natural, so it's got to be good, right? In short, no. Might I remind everyone that Poison Ivy is all-natural too? I might even offer some personal testimony by slipping in the fact that Burt's Baby Bee Buttermilk Lotion actually broke my baby out in hives (that added fragrance sure does make it smell good though!) I could do this, but I think that qualifies as beating a dead horse. I could do all of these things, and more, but I think you get the point.

Though the "natural is better" marketing ploy is certainly not new, Burt's Bees' recent campaign seems to have taken it to a new level. If you weren't aware of this trend, scan the face mags on your coffee table. If you're lucky, you may even run across "The Burt's Bees Guide To Your Well Being", a 6 page digest of the ad campaign I've been talking about (speaking of which, isn't a bit ironic that a brand touting their "commitment to The Greater Good" is printing up 6 page magazine inserts? That's a lot of wasted recycled paper and soy ink!)

I encourage you to really think about the relevancy of the comparisons that are being made. Be aware of marketing tricks that lead you to assume benefits that the company can't overtly claim because they have no proof to back it up. Use the internet as a tool of truth- sites like PubMed, Paula Begoun's Cosmetics Cop (check out the ingredient dictionary), and Cosmeticsinfo.org are out there so that we don't have to take their word for it. Knowing something is true because you've seen the proof is so much more powerful than thinking something is so simply because someone else says it is. But don't take my word for it...

*EDIT*

In the year since I wrote this, I've come to question the bias of the Environmental Working Group, who runs the Skin Deep database. I no longer trust it as an impartial source. I have removed my recommendation of their database, and added a link to PubMed, the online archives of the US National Library of Medicine.

Quick Tip: Be Cool to Your Skin

Avoid using hot water to cleanse your skin, especially your face. Using water that is too warm will strip away too much of your skin's own moisture and protective barrier, leading to dry, irritated skin.

Use lukewarm water to wash, and make the last few splashes as cold as you can stand; the chill will help to close pores and reduce any puffiness.

Two Huge Friends & Family Sales! Urban Decay and Tarte

Until next Monday, use code FF09 when you check out and save a whopping 40% on your entire purchase online at Tarte Cosmetics! They pitch in a free sample with every order, plus, if you spend over $60, Tarte will kick in on the shipping and send it all to you for FREE!

I've been waffling over some of Tarte's famous cheek stains (particularly the limited edition A Perfect Whirled) for ages; now may be the time for me!

Though I'm a bit late on the take (blame untimely e-mails!) you still have until this Thursday to get in on Urban Decay's fall Friends & Family event. Save 30% on your online purchase- anything from their awesome 24/7 eyeliners (1999 is a favorite of mine) to their gold standard Primer Potion, when you use the code FNFF1. As an added bonus, get a free sample packet of Primer Potion with every order, and free shipping on orders over $50- as if that's difficult!

This Week's Sales: Jemma Kidd, Kinerase, Mario Badescu and more!!!

This week is second chance week in Salesville! We've seen most of these around (some just last week) but if you've been lemming something you let go last time, you may just be in luck!

HauteLook starts us off on Tuesday, August 18th with Perricone MD skincare. I'm in the market for a good night cream, so I'll be on the look out for a good deal! And if you missed it on Gilt Groupe last week, check out Rock & Republic Cosmetics on Wednesday, August 19th. I personally consider $135 (on SALE) a bit out of my price range for a bronzer, but if the refillable Swarovski encrusted compact sweetens the deal enough for you, don't miss this sale! Both sales start at 11am EDT.

Midweek over at Billion Dollar Babes, check out Kinerase skincare and Amazing Cosmetics. I'll be hoping to check out Amazing Concealer from (who else?) Amazing Cosmetics, a 2005 Allure Editor's Choice winner. And, though I'll admit I wasn't fond of Kinerase's SPF 30 Cream, I could be tempted to try their Ultimate Night Moisturizer if the deal is hot enough. Both sales start Wednesday, August 19th.

Gilt Groupe also waits until Wednesday this week to tempt us beauty addicts, bringing in Brit offering Jemma Kidd Makeup School on the 19th followed by D.L.& Co. on Thursday, August 20th. If you're into romantic Gothic images ala Burton or Gaiman, D.L.& Co.'s gloriously dark fragrances, candles and other home goods will be perfect for your aesthetic; what else would you expect from the company that refers to themselves as "modern alchemists and purveyors of curious goods"? Also on Thursday, don't miss star-touted skincare line Mario Badescu. If you keep up with my blog, you're already familiar with this line, which uses age-old, proven remedies in their no-nonsense approach to skin care and treatment. I'll, of course, be looking for my favorites: Glycolic Acid Toner, Drying Creme and Drying Lotion.

Finally, if you're new to my site, here's the deal: these sales are by invitation only. If you don't have an account yet, this is your personal invite! It's totally free, and totally easy- just follow the link to the sale by clicking on the name of the site that's hosting the sale! I do my best to write up all of the sales that are listed ahead of time, but since they are subject to change at any time, make sure you're following me on Twitter for the most up to date info!

Product Review: Freeze 24-7 Instant Targeted Wrinkle Treatment

A few years back, a store I was working at started to carry Freeze 24-7, an anti-wrinkle line that supposedly boasted Botox-like wrinkle freezing properties. Freeze 24-7's miracle ingredient, GABA (short for Gamma Aminobutyric Acid) is naturally occurring in our bodies, and in conjunction with other chemicals, it inhibits the speed at which nerves fire. When applied topically, Freeze 24-7 claims its products can relax the facial muscles that cause lines. The key demo product in the line, the Instant Targeted Wrinkle Treatment (which I hereby dub "ITWT") caught my eye, so I thought I'd look a bit deeper.

At $65 for a 10g jar (that's about $186 per ounce, if anyone is counting) Freeze 24-7 Wrinkle Treatment is not exactly a bargain, but honestly, I'd pay much more than that for a viable alternative to sticking a needle full of botulism in my face. Unfortunately, after a quick review of the training materials provided by Freeze 24-7, I decided to pass on this miracle product. Why?

According to the company, the ITWT's benefits last up to 24 hours, and only while the product is on the skin. Frankly, there was no way I was going to pay that much money for something that washed away at the end of the day, especially when there are proven, effective treatments that cost the same or even less. Prescription Renova, for instance, runs about $100 per ounce and provides actual, measurable reduction of lines.

Still, I was curious about Freeze 24-7's claims, so when I came across a jar of ITWT for a whopping 75% off, I grabbed it and headed home to experiment. I also decided to do a bit more research.

The first thing I learned about GABA is that the topical benefits are completely unsubstantiated; there are NO studies that support the idea that topically applied GABA (or anything else applied to the surface of the skin for that matter) can do anything to affect muscle actions. There's also the fact that in the body, GABA does not act alone. It takes a host of other chemicals to help GABA produce it's inhibiting effects, chemicals that skin care products do not contain.

Then, of course there's the big catch 22- if putting GABA in skincare really relaxed muscles enough to eliminate wrinkles, what would stop it from doing the same thing to other muscles it comes into contact with? The muscles in your hands would be subject, since you likely use your fingers to apply the product. Potentially, even airway passages you use to breathe could be affected if you used the creme around your nose, mouth or throat. Curiously, there are no warnings about this on Freeze 24-7's product packaging.

It would seem GABA's effect in skin care is a bit iffy at best, so I turned to the product's other ingredients. Since the first three to five ingredients comprise the bulk of a product, it's usually there that you will see a product's true nature revealed. Here's a breakdown of ITWT's first five ingredients:

- Aqua (Water)
- Glyceryl Stearate (an emollient and thickening agent)
- Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil (this mimics the skin's own natural moisture barrier)
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (another emollient/thickener)
- PEG-150 Distearate (this basically binds the mixture together and keeps it from separating.)

A few more binders and one antioxidant later, we find a middling amount of the highly touted ingredient, GABA. What didn't I find? Anything that would get rid of wrinkles or help to rebuild collagen. What I did find? Eugenol- a potent irritant that can act as a mild anesthetic on the skin. I'm guessing that this explains the tightening feeling I got when I tried it. Sadly, the product was only tricking my mind into thinking my skin was tighter, while at the same time putting my skin at major risk for contact dermatitis. Luckily, I didn't react, but I also saw absolutely no difference in the appearance of wrinkles on my skin.

When it comes down to it, I'd have to say this product is pretty useless. Though it holds a decent concentration of emollients, the texture is rather filmy, almost waxy, on the skin, and did not work underneath my makeup- it made my foundation look cakey and dry in the areas I had applied it. Considering the fact that it has an ingredient that carries a high risk of irritation, I wouldn't even say this is a viable moisturizer for non-makeup days (granted, it is not marketed as a moisturizer).

I give this product 0 out of 5 stars.

I'm not even going to bother listing the pros and cons as I usually do, because in this case, I honestly can't see any pros- the product's claims are misleading, and there really is no alternative use for it (maybe it would dull the itch of a mosquito bite? I'm really reaching here...) If you want to spend an exorbitant amount of money on something to pamper your skin, there are tons of options out there, but I say skip this one for sure!

This Week's Sales:New Additions: Clarisonic and Thierry Mugler!

This week on Gilt Groupe we see Freeze 24-7 again, this time on Monday, August 10th. Then on Thursday August 13th, Rock & Republic Cosmetics makes their sale debut, I can't wait to see what goodies they have to offer. I'd buy almost anything that comes in such an awesomely designed compact! Wrapping up the week, if you've been waiting to try cult favorite Clarisonic, this could be the chance we've all been waiting for when the beauty brush to beat all beauty brushes hits the sale site on Friday, August 14th. All Gilt sales start at noon, EDT.

Haute Look starts their week in beauty with Laura Mercier on Tuesday, August 11, at 11am. And since I missed a great deal on their 24/7 eyeliner sets, I'm hoping to find them again when Haute Look features Urban Decay on August 13th.

New to the rotation (thanks for the invite, Adina!) Editor's Closet will be featuring Thierry Mugler on Thursday, August 14th. Of course, I would have been remiss to not mention this, as Mugler's Angel is one of my all-time favorite fragrances!

You guys know the drill; these sales are by invitation only, if you don't have an account yet, here's your personal invite! It's totally free, and you can join now- for Editor's closet, CLICK HERE for a personal invite from me, for all of the other sales, you can just follow the link by clicking on the from name of the site! As always, I do my best to list all of the sales that I know of, but since they are subject to change at any time, make sure you're following me on Twitter for the most up to date info!