Taking Martha Stewart to Task on Beauty:A Commentary

First, a small disclosure: I'm a long-time fan of Martha Stewart. I've subscribed to Martha Stewart Living since I was a 20-something living in a studio apartment. I save each and every issue, and I DVR her show daily. My three-year-old not only knows who Martha is, she asks to watch her show. My bath towels are Martha Stewart.

I was excited when the magazine recently added a beauty section. Let's face it, Martha's been around the block a time or two and by the (fantastic) looks of her, has a few tricks up her sleeve. So when I turned to page 55 in the November 2011 issue and saw the feature "Striking Gold" proclaiming that "oil isn't the skin saboteur you've always thought it was", I was psyched. "Finally!" I thought. "Martha's going to lay down the law and let people know that oil can be good for their skin!" While that indeed is the bent of the feature, I wasn't 30 seconds into the passage before I saw something that had my eyes rolling.

On the second page of the article, author Sarah Z. Wexler recommends a slew of oils for different purposes. In the cleansing category I noticed a photo of Philosophy Purity Made Simple Mineral Oil-Free Facial Cleansing Oil. As a fan of the original Purity, I skipped right to the product description. According to the article, Purity Oil "dissolves makeup with natural oils from olives, sandalwood, and geraniums instead of pore-clogging mineral oil". 


BIG roll of the eyes. Here we go again...and in an article that I'd thought was trying to dispel myths about oils! Let me restate the claim once again, for those who aren't sure what's got me in such a tizzy.

"dissolves makeup with natural oils...instead of pore-clogging mineral oil". 


Apparently Ms. Wexler, as well as the editors over at Living, missed the memo (by memo, I mean widely quoted study published in the January 2005 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology). Mineral oil DOES NOT clog pores. It is non-comedogenic. On the 0-5 scale used to rate comedogenicity (the likelihood of an ingredient to clog pores) with zero being the least likely and five being most likely, MINERAL OIL IS A ZERO. It. Does. Not. Clog. Pores.

Now that we've got that cleared up, lets back up a minute. One natural oil the magazine implies is better than mineral oil is sandalwood oil. You all know it as the musky scent so popular in college campus hacky-sack circles. Which should be a red-flag to all: fragrance is one of the most common irritants in skincare products, and natural oils don't get a free pass. Indeed, according to "Cosmetics Cop" Paula Begoun, sandalwood oil can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. I, of course, reinforced this data with several studies archived on PubMed. A brief look at the ingredient list of the Purity oil shows that it includes several other oils that are known irritants, but it also revealed something much more interesting: the first two ingredients in the product, isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate.

Why, you may ask, is this so interesting? Well, remember that 0-5 scale for comedogenic ingredients? Remember how a five is as bad as it gets- the most pore clogging potential an ingredient can have? Well, it just so happens that isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate are a 4 and 5 on that scale, respectively. Yup. Both ingredients are considered highly comedogenic. Big ol' pore-cloggers. Funny isn't it? Or notsomuch.

Now, as a member of the beauty blogging community, I see myths like this perpetuated regularly. While it's bad enough to see bloggers do it, I'm a bit more forgiving when I know it's simply a consumer passing on a personal experience or second-hand knowledge. However, when such misinformation is being sustained by someone who is looked at as an "expert" on the subject- a feature writer or beauty editor for a major magazine- I find it simply inexcusable. So many people look to these writers for education; to become smarter, more savvy consumers. If we can't trust them to do more than essentially reprint a company press-release in the guise of a beauty feature, well...you always have me ;)

30 in 30: Question #28 What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

OK, so 30 days didn't happen. My cat ate my...computer? I accepted a drink from a stranger and woke up yesterday in a motel bathtub full of ice? I thought it was 30 business days (on the planet Mercury)? Anyway, we are in the home stretch, so I'm going to continue on with...

Question #28. What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

When it comes to taking my makeup off, the fewer steps the better. I always look for a cleanser that will take all of my makeup too, and for years I’ve found that Philosophy Purity Made Simple does not exaggerate its claims of being a one-step solution. It removes just about everything but waterproof mascara- on days I opt for that, I use Make Up For Ever Sens’eyes or Sonia Kashuk dual-phase remover. For quick corrections, I use MAC Pro Eye Makeup Remover- it dries quickly with no oily residue, so I can work right over it immediately, but I find it somewhat irritating to use on my entire eye.

This Week's Sales: Bare Escentuals & Philosophy Friends & Family, Supergoop, Temptu...and more!

Bare Escentuals Friends & Family

Get 20% off this Thursday, June 16, 2011 through Sunday, June 19, 2011 (ends 11:59 pm PDT) at Bare Escentuals boutiques in the U.S.A as well as BareEscentuals.com and mdformulations.com only. Use coupon code LOVE at checkout.

Make Up For Ever on QVC:

Wednesday, June 15th at 1AM EST. Not exactly a sale, per se, but there will be exclusive sets offered, like a full-size set of 3 Aqua Eyes liners for $34 (that's about 37% off!)

Philosophy Friends & Family:

25% off all orders through June 16, 2011 with code philosophy25

Beyond the Rack

Monday: Sea Tone

Thursday: Designer Fragrances for Him, Beauty Boutique feat. Lancome, MAC, Smashbox, Urban Decay, Philosophy & more.

Brand Alley

Tuesday: Rio Salon Solutions

If you're not a member yet, click here for an invite and we can both earn a £10 voucher!

Gilt Groupe

Tuesday: Temptu Retouch

HauteLook
Monday: Carol's Daughter

Tuesday: Smashbox (select items from the even will be available to Facebook fans starting Monday at 12 PM PST)

Wednesday: 360 Skincare, Ginger & Liz Colour Collection
Thursday: Rock & Republic Beauty

Friday: Beauty Gadget Event

Ideeli

Monday: DermaNew

Rue La La

Friday: Corioliss

Swirl

Tuesday: Supergoop

This Week's Sales: Bliss, StriVectin, Boom! and more

To start off this week, a few good deals from non-members only sites:

Blissworld.com is offering 20% off all Bliss, Laboratoire Remède or Elemis brand purchases, plus free shipping if you spend $50 or more! Just enter code JAN2011 at checkout and get there before the offer ends on January 27th.

Over at Philosophy (online or in flagship stores) use the code VALENTINES and enjoy 15% off of any fragrance and bath & body products. As always, you'll also get free ground shipping on orders of $50 or more. Offer ends January 28th.

Ulta has a coupon good for 20% off your entire order with code 44480. Valid online or in-store until January 29th. Even with the usual restrictions on prestige cosmetics & skincare (check the link for specifics) there's still tons to use this on!

Now on to the exclusive stuff (of course, you can always join by clicking the link. They're all free of course!)

HauteLook has a week full of beauty this week, starting with StriVectin and Rock & Republic Beauty on Monday, Oscar Blandi and Pharmagel on Tuesday, Somme on Wednesday and Goldfaden on Thursday.

Ideeli features Boom! by Cindy Joseph on Tuesday, January 25th.

Get a jump on V-Day at the Designer Fragrances for Men and Women Boutique beginning Monday over at Beyond the Rack. If that's not really your concern, you can check out Fusion Beauty on Wednesday, January 26th.

Beauty Story has a Beauty Blowout sale going on now, featuring brands like Eve Pearl, Decleor, Michael Todd Cosmetics, and more. On Thursday, Davi Napa visits.

Who is shopping this week?

Philosophy Friends & Family!

Enough said, right? Use the code happiness now through Thursday, May 20th and get 20% off of EVERYTHING on Philosophy.com! Don't know where to start? I'm still a loyal fan of Purity Made Simple cleanser (the original lotion-y formula, not the foam.) You can read my review here, if you haven't yet. If cleanser's not your bag, you can't go wrong with their yummy bath and body creations- Chocolate Cake Batter shower gel, anyone? Let us know your favorites in the comments, and have fun shopping!

This Week's Sales: Urban Decay, Philosophy, Pixi, DDF & More!

Back in the grind and we're seeing a ton of sales this week, so gear up and let's go shopping!

HauteLook is the place to be this week, starting on Monday, January 11th when they feature Go Smile. On Tuesday, the site showcases H2O+ but if you're a fan of the brand, I'd suggest comparison shopping at the H2O+ web site; they have a ton of gift sets and assorted items up to 60% off! Next comes Urban Decay on Wednesday the 13th (Urban Decay, FYI, always has a clearance section on their site!) On Thursday check out DDF, followed by Functionalab on Friday and Bionova on Saturday. Oh, and in case you find something you must have, here's a code for $10 off: HL2010 (expires Saturday the 16th, so don't dally!)

Editors Closet (click here for a personal invite) is getting more and more into the beauty game. Last week it was Pop Beauty, this week it's Pixi on Monday and Madeline Beth on Thursday, January 14th. Of course, If you miss Pixi on Monday, don't fret- they'll be at Billion Dollar Babes this Wednesday also!

Gilt Groupe is fairly quiet this week, presenting a sole beauty vendor on Thursday Jan 14 when they feature exhale spa.

And finally, coming up on The Fairest: Mama Mio, Lisa Hoffman, Juara, Alchimie Forever, and Mojo Cosmetics.

Finally, I have to mention the Philosophy web sale. Now through Thursday, January 14th, get 10% off purchases over $50 or 20% off purchases over $100 using the code newyear. (They'll even send it to you for free if you spend over $50)

So, like I said, busy week. What are you going to be looking for?

Product Review:Philosophy Purity Made Simple Cleanser

Since this is my first review, let me tell you: I am a product junkie. I can't think of the last time I bought the same cleanser twice in a row. I've tried a gazillion brands- from high end prestige (La Mer) to drug store oldies (Cetaphil) and rarely go back twice. Why? I guess I've never found a perfect 10.

My most recent purchase in the cleanser category was Philosophy's Purity Made Simple, which caught my eye after winning the venerable Reader's Choice Award from Allure Magazine. (Allure's annual Best of Beauty list is typically one of first 2 starting places I check out before buying a new product, the other being the Cosmetic Executive Women's- or CEW- Awards.) I should mention that this is the original formula, not the clear, high-foaming newbie.

I could have tried the product for $10 by picking up the travel size, but my retail background thriftiness just wouldn't let me waste money like that! After I checked the store's return policy (I am sometimes the victim of allergic reactions) I went the bulk route and bought the giant 24 oz. bottle for $40. While this might seem pricey, I'll point out that per ounce this makes it comparable to the pricier drugstore choices, and at the low end if you compare it to it's true competitors in the prestige brands.

Purity Made Simple is an odd little cleanser. I would classify it as a foaming lotion, however, it's important not to confuse foaming for lathering. You will not get any large sudsy bubbles using this cleanser; think more of a less cushy shaving cream consistency. This is the first time I've seen this formulation, which seems to be a hybrid of the typical lathering cleanser and the more gentle milky lotion formulas.

I have dry skin, the prescription for which is typically a cream or lotion cleanser. Later, I'll get more into this, but a good clue that your cleanser is too harsh is if your skin feels tight or stretched after you cleanse. The problem is finding a happy medium. I'll admit, I use some heavy duty stuff- the maximum cover makeup that I often use as a concealer says it's waterproof, it's often cleanser proof as well. Creams do a great job taking makeup off, but leave behind an oily residue that make me feel like I still need to wash. Lotions usually rinse cleaner, but often leave makeup behind. The reviews I read of Purity made me hopeful, and so far, I've not been let down.

Purity, despite it's disguise as a lotion, is made to be used with water. After a week of using it, I found that the best way to apply it was to wet my face first and then use about a nickle sized drop. I started out using much more, but now have it down to about a third (maybe even a quarter) of what I use when using most other lotion or cream cleansers. I noticed the first time I used it that it did indeed take all of my makeup off- mascara, shadow, even the foundation hiding in the creases of my nose! I also felt soft and conditioned after rinsing- none of the tightness that I generally experience when I use a water assisted cleanser. After using Purity for a couple of weeks, I must say, I'm quite impressed.

Out of 10, I'd have to rate this about an 8.5.

::EDIT::

After beginning a prescription retinol regimen this past spring, I have realized that Purity is a tiny bit more drying than I'd originally thought, though if I had to guess I think it's likely due to the fact that Purity doesn't leave much residue behind. After my already-dry skin adjusted to the retinol, I found I was still having issues with dryness around my nose. After switching cleansers for review purposes, I found the dryness disappeared. When I switched back to the Purity, it popped up again. I still love Purity, and will continue using it, but thought those with extremely dry skin would benefit from this info. I also feel like I should point out that this is the least drying foaming formula I've ever tried, so unless you're inclined to switch to a non-lathering lotion, milk or cream cleanser, Purity is still your best option.

Pros:
-A little goes a long way
-Removes regular eye makeup, full coverage makeup, etc...
-Leaves skin soft, not dry or tight.
-No greasy residue left after rinsing.
-Ease of use: Rinse off (I hate wasting tons of tissues or dirtying a washcloth every night)

Cons:
-Yeah, so it's not the cheapest thing out there.
-It occasionally left traces of eye makeup behind (though not often) and didn't even budge waterproof mascara.
-The flip top isn't bad, but a pump would be better ::EDIT:: Pumps are available on larger sizes!
-Philosophy isn't widely available in stores (I bought mine at Sephora, and of course, anything is available if you have Internet access.)