January Birchbox: Instant Reviews

Birchbox is a tiny bundle of monthly love made with beauty junkies in mind. For $10 a month you receive a package filled with 4-5 samples, many of which are deluxe size, with the occasional full-size product thrown in. Deluxe size samples are plenty big enough get a good feel for the instant effects, but maybe not quite enough to judge long-term results. Instant reviews are just that- my instant impressions on the products. These installments will be based on my initial testing, swatching and, of course (you know me) a peek at the ingredients.

Archipelago Pomegranate Body Soap
Sample Size: 1.8oz
Retail Size: 6.8oz for $12.50
Sample Value: $3.31

It's a little bar of soap, what can I say? I like the crisp, slightly citrusy, pomegranate scent, and the pretty etching on the soap itself. I also think the concave shape on the other side is rather ingenious as it keeps the bar from sitting in a puddle of water, but I have no idea if this shape is featured in the full-size or not.

The lather was nice and rich, though the scent didn't seem to carry into the bubbles. It rinsed away without leaving a film behind, but did leave my skin dry and noticeably rough across the knuckles. As far as the claims that this is better than drug-store bars, or that the botanicals in the soap can provide an anti-oxidant boost, I'm skeptical. I've never found a bar soap that wasn't drying, and though things like white tea, cranberry and pomegranate do have antioxidant properties, I suspect they'd do very little in the short amount of time it takes to wash your hands (or body).

Juicy Couture Eau de Parfum Spray
Sample Size: .05oz
Retail Size: 3.4oz for $89
Sample Value: $1.31

First, I have to say, I think Birchbox needs to lay-off the fragrance samples. Sure, trying new scents is great, but I can walk into any department store or Sephora and get these for free- it seems kind of shady to even say they have monetary value!

I'd call this a fruity floral, leaning heavily toward the floral side. The rose, lily and tuberose undertones all but dominate the fruity top notes of watermelon, mandarin and passion fruit. Even with a trained nose, I can barely pull out the green apple accord that's supposed to lighten up the scent, which just stops short of being cloying. Not a bad scent, especially if your style is "sweetly romantic" but it seems a bit...familiar- especially for such a high price tag!


LÄRABAR Mini Bar in Carrot Cake
Sample Size: .78 oz (1 mini bar)
Retail Size: $14.95 for 12 (Carrot Cake not available in mini)
Sample Value: $1.25

In short: $1.25 for a two-bite, 100 calorie nugget? No thanks. It didn't even taste all that good- definitely an "energy bar" flavor & texture. Having said that, I do like the little nommy treats that Birchbox includes from time to time, so even though this wouldn't be a "repurchase" for me, it still gets a thumbs-up!

Origins Checks And Balances Frothy Face Wash
Sample Size: 1oz
Retail Size: 5oz for $19.50
Sample Value: $3.90

Smells like Origins! Which is to say, lightly pepperminty with an ever-so-subtle herbal undertone. I love the scent, but knowing that mint extracts are skin irritants gives me pause- a peek at the ingredient list shows more worrisome ingredients (bergamot, lavender, and linalool). According to Origins, these additives "add pleasure to the process" but irritation isn't exactly my idea of pleasing.

Upon using it, I found the foamy cream very concentrated- a pea sized dollop will do your entire face. It rinses away well, with maybe a tiny bit of a filmy feel. Despite Origins' claims, I did feel some tightness after toweling off, but I have dry skin so that's normal for me with any sudsing or foaming cleanser. Origins says this is for all skin-types, though I think oily and normal skin-types would find it most comfortable. Having said that, the potential irritants in the formula would probably keep me from recommending it to anyone.


Stila Smudge Stick Waterproof Eye Liner in Lionfish

Sample Size: Full Size (.01oz/28g)
Sample Value: $20

This liner is right down my alley- as the name suggests, it's smudgeable, which is a must for me with any pencil liner. My preferred method for applying pencil is to line the outer 1/2 of my upper lid, then use a smudger brush to soften the line & pull color closer to the inside corner. Ideally, I can then use the "leftover" pigment on the brush to smudge a soft line under my bottom lashes. The problem I run into is often liners that are soft enough to smudge either wipe right away or never set. Smudge Stick blends well as long as you work relatively quickly. The liner does set pretty quickly, so I'd suggest doing one eye at a time if smudging is your preference.

Lionfish is a chocolatety-bronze shade with shimmer, and while browns aren't my choice for every-day use (I prefer a reddish-plum to highlight my green eyes) I'm sure I'll get plenty of use out of this.

TOTAL JANUARY BOX VALUE: $29.77

Though there was nothing in my box this month that I was unconditionally in love with, I still consider this box a win. The samples were items I was happy to try, all good sizes, and of course the inclusion of a full-sized product goes a long way to sway my favor. As I mentioned, I also like it when I get an "eat me now" treat in my box- even if I do have to share it with a curious little 4-year-old!

How about you guys? Are any of this month's samples on your favorites lists?

Taking Martha Stewart to Task on Beauty:A Commentary

First, a small disclosure: I'm a long-time fan of Martha Stewart. I've subscribed to Martha Stewart Living since I was a 20-something living in a studio apartment. I save each and every issue, and I DVR her show daily. My three-year-old not only knows who Martha is, she asks to watch her show. My bath towels are Martha Stewart.

I was excited when the magazine recently added a beauty section. Let's face it, Martha's been around the block a time or two and by the (fantastic) looks of her, has a few tricks up her sleeve. So when I turned to page 55 in the November 2011 issue and saw the feature "Striking Gold" proclaiming that "oil isn't the skin saboteur you've always thought it was", I was psyched. "Finally!" I thought. "Martha's going to lay down the law and let people know that oil can be good for their skin!" While that indeed is the bent of the feature, I wasn't 30 seconds into the passage before I saw something that had my eyes rolling.

On the second page of the article, author Sarah Z. Wexler recommends a slew of oils for different purposes. In the cleansing category I noticed a photo of Philosophy Purity Made Simple Mineral Oil-Free Facial Cleansing Oil. As a fan of the original Purity, I skipped right to the product description. According to the article, Purity Oil "dissolves makeup with natural oils from olives, sandalwood, and geraniums instead of pore-clogging mineral oil". 


BIG roll of the eyes. Here we go again...and in an article that I'd thought was trying to dispel myths about oils! Let me restate the claim once again, for those who aren't sure what's got me in such a tizzy.

"dissolves makeup with natural oils...instead of pore-clogging mineral oil". 


Apparently Ms. Wexler, as well as the editors over at Living, missed the memo (by memo, I mean widely quoted study published in the January 2005 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology). Mineral oil DOES NOT clog pores. It is non-comedogenic. On the 0-5 scale used to rate comedogenicity (the likelihood of an ingredient to clog pores) with zero being the least likely and five being most likely, MINERAL OIL IS A ZERO. It. Does. Not. Clog. Pores.

Now that we've got that cleared up, lets back up a minute. One natural oil the magazine implies is better than mineral oil is sandalwood oil. You all know it as the musky scent so popular in college campus hacky-sack circles. Which should be a red-flag to all: fragrance is one of the most common irritants in skincare products, and natural oils don't get a free pass. Indeed, according to "Cosmetics Cop" Paula Begoun, sandalwood oil can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. I, of course, reinforced this data with several studies archived on PubMed. A brief look at the ingredient list of the Purity oil shows that it includes several other oils that are known irritants, but it also revealed something much more interesting: the first two ingredients in the product, isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate.

Why, you may ask, is this so interesting? Well, remember that 0-5 scale for comedogenic ingredients? Remember how a five is as bad as it gets- the most pore clogging potential an ingredient can have? Well, it just so happens that isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate are a 4 and 5 on that scale, respectively. Yup. Both ingredients are considered highly comedogenic. Big ol' pore-cloggers. Funny isn't it? Or notsomuch.

Now, as a member of the beauty blogging community, I see myths like this perpetuated regularly. While it's bad enough to see bloggers do it, I'm a bit more forgiving when I know it's simply a consumer passing on a personal experience or second-hand knowledge. However, when such misinformation is being sustained by someone who is looked at as an "expert" on the subject- a feature writer or beauty editor for a major magazine- I find it simply inexcusable. So many people look to these writers for education; to become smarter, more savvy consumers. If we can't trust them to do more than essentially reprint a company press-release in the guise of a beauty feature, well...you always have me ;)

30 in 30: Question #28 What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

OK, so 30 days didn't happen. My cat ate my...computer? I accepted a drink from a stranger and woke up yesterday in a motel bathtub full of ice? I thought it was 30 business days (on the planet Mercury)? Anyway, we are in the home stretch, so I'm going to continue on with...

Question #28. What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

When it comes to taking my makeup off, the fewer steps the better. I always look for a cleanser that will take all of my makeup too, and for years I’ve found that Philosophy Purity Made Simple does not exaggerate its claims of being a one-step solution. It removes just about everything but waterproof mascara- on days I opt for that, I use Make Up For Ever Sens’eyes or Sonia Kashuk dual-phase remover. For quick corrections, I use MAC Pro Eye Makeup Remover- it dries quickly with no oily residue, so I can work right over it immediately, but I find it somewhat irritating to use on my entire eye.

Quick Tip:Your Favorite Scent...Now in a Hand Soap!

Ever wish your favorite scent came in a hand wash? Guess what...it might- it's just not called that on the label!

If your scent of choice comes in a body wash or shower gel option, buy a pretty refillable pump and fill that baby up- after all, hands are a part of the body, aren't they? All kidding aside, the surfactants in body washes are the same as those typically used in hand soaps, so they really do clean your hands just as well as your body.As an added bonus, body wash often has added moisturizing ingredients, so your hands are less likely to dry out with your new cleansing option.

Used to antibacterial soap and worried about germs? Consider this: studies have consistently found that antibacterial soaps are no more effective than regular formulations, and could even be harmful. The plain fact is that washing with regular soap for just 20 seconds kills harmful bacteria. Since Triclosan, the antibacterial agent used in most popular anti-bac soaps, takes around 30 seconds to off the little buggers, you can see, totally not necessary. So grab some shower gel, smell good and be clean!

Am I the Only Person Who Doesn't Like:Clarisonic?

No one can accuse me of burying the lead; I feel like I have to start out on a negative note, if for no other reason than to differentiate myself from the scads of raving reviews out there for this pricey gadget. As a 15-year veteran of the beauty industry, I very rarely get taken in by marketing glimmer, though it does sometimes catch my eye. Even more rare are the occurrences where hype from raving users makes me take the plunge. I'm an analytical girl, I trust hard numbers & peer-reviewed studies much more than my best friend when it comes to what's great for my skin. It was that nature that kept my wallet safe for years after the advent and subsequent firestorm of praise for Clarisonic, until recently.

I'm not really sure what made me finally dive in; perhaps it was a couple Ulta gift cards burning a hole in my pocket, or the fact that I really don't think I've ever seen a bad review for this thing, but at the end of January, I finally plunked down the $149 and picked up a Clarisonic Mia Sonic Skin Cleansing System. Clarisonic claims to use sonic waves to dislodge dirt & oil in the skin. According to their website, Clarisonic was proven twice as effective at cleansing the skin and removed 6 times more makeup.

Sounds kind of impressive, until you read the specifics. First, to my knowledge*, there are no published or peer-reviewed studies substantiating any of the claims Clarisonic makes on their website. So we basically have to take their word for it. Second, if you read the details of the "studies" Clarisonic has on their site, you'll see that they were done on very small sample sizes- the largest group was comprised of 30 subjects, some groups were as small as 10 people. Does this mean that only 10 people were chosen for the study, or could it mean that only 10 people were included in the results because that's how many showed the desirable outcome? We don't know, because Clarisonic didn't let anyone else review the information. Second- the methodology, aside from what they tell us, is a complete mystery. How much cleanser was used, how long was it used for, etc...Even the information they DO give make their claims less impressive.

Clarisonic cleanses twice as well...as soap and water. How many of you use plain soap on your skin? Also, in this case "cleansing" is measured by oil levels in the skin, which isn't quite the same as cleansing, is it? Just because oil is removed doesn't mean your skin is clean. Which brings us to...

Clarisonic removes 6 times as much makeup....are you ready for this....as WATER. Yeah. Did they test it against a cleanser? Of course not, why would they? We all use plain water to remove our makeup, right?

And in either study, did they compare the Clarisonic to a manual exfoliator, like a cleansing brush, scrub or even a plain washcloth? Nope. Interesting, huh?

So suffice it to say, despite the way the "studies" are used to make this brush seem like it's worth more than a $2 facial brush, there's really nothing showing us that it is. But I tried it anyway. And...

Well, obviously, I was wary at first. I have very sensitive skin, and can't really use any manual scrubs or exfoliators. My skin is dry and very thin, and even overzealousness with a washcloth will tear it, which creates more flakiness than I started out with (these microscopic tears also wreck the skin's protective barrier, creating potential for irritation, inflammation and dryness). When I began using the Clarisonic, I suspected this would be an issue, so I only used it once daily, as part of my night-time cleansing routine. To get the most objective results possible, I changed NOTHING else about my routine. I left the cleanser sample in the box & used my old standby.

For the first few weeks, I noticed little difference in my skin. I did feel that my skin was "purging" a bit (in essence, I was breaking out as my skin adjusted to the new cleansing method) and I felt like the occasional whitehead seemed easier to extract, as if it was closer to the surface. I also felt tighter after cleansing, not surprising considering the extra nightly exfoliation. This didn't worry me terribly, since another benefit Clarisonic touts is better absorption of product. However, when I woke in the morning tighter and flakier than I had before Clarisonic, what little hope I had began to slip.

Knowing that it takes 4-6 weeks to see true results of any skin-care regime, I kept with it. My skin kept getting drier and drier, and at first I didn't really connect the dots. My skin is temperamental, and it's not unusual for me to see a flake or two, especially during the winter. However, by the 4th-5th week, my skin was so dry it was literally cracking on my forehead. I began to use a rich moisture booster over my usual nightly moisture, and still, the dryness persisted. By this time, I highly suspected the Clarisonic and stopped using it. Within three days, my skin had normalized and, with the exception of one tiny spot, the cracked skin had completely healed.

That day I returned my Clarisonic. I hate returning items, but for such a big ticket item, it would have been disgraceful to let it sit in retirement under the sink. I should mention, after tweeting about my disappointment, a Clarisonic rep suggested I switch from the "sensitive" brush head that comes with the Mia to the more gentle "delicate" brush- in essence, invest another $25 so that my $150 machine will work appropriately. No thanks.

So why do so many people see such great results from the Clarisonic? I have three hypotheses.

1. The Clarisonic does exfoliate the skin. Removing dead skin- no matter how you do it- makes cleansing more effective, and allows product to better absorb (because the product isn't wasting time trying to soak through a layer of dead skin). But this effect does not cost $150, you can do it with a washcloth or sugar from your kitchen.
2. The Clarisonic ensures proper cleansing time. The timer function on the Clarisonic ensures that you cleanse your face for a full minute- which is how long most cleansers actually require to fully dissolve makeup and oil. I suspect that many people do not cleanse for an adequate amount of time prior to using the Clarisonic, and it could easily be the increased cleansing time that produces some of the positive results.
3. The Clarisonic encourages daily cleansing. You're in from the bar at 2:30 AM and ready to pass out. No big deal if you skip one night. We've all been there- but if you've spent $150 on a cleansing gadget, something tells me you might just be more likely to haul yourself into the bathroom for a quick scrub.

And, now, a bonus 4th hypothesis! The Clarisonic breeds deep-seated denial. People just don't want to believe they've wasted $150 on something that doesn't work, so they see results that just aren't there.

If you're considering a Clarisonic, my suggestion is to pick up a kitchen timer and add some gentle exfoliation to your nightly routine. Grab a washcloth, pick up a facial brush or, if you're delicate like me, try my favorite exfoliating method- facial cleansing sponges. Set your timer to one minute, and go to it. You may be surprised what improvements you'll see in your skin. But if, after all of this, you're still tempted to see what all the hype is about, my final suggestion? Keep your receipt.

*My search of the US National Library of Medicine's archives showed one published study on the Clarisonic. Done by Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. (the makers of Clarisonic) in 2006, the study essentially states that the movement of the brush's bristles help to dislodge material in the pores. None of the other claims on Clarisonic's website are mentioned in the abstract of this study.

Hey Baby! What's Your (Skin) Type?

Knowing your skin type is vital if you want to put your best face forward- so why does it remain such a mystery to so many people? Often, we look at symptoms like acne, flakiness or dry patches and make assumptions about our skin type that may not be accurate. Sadly, the fact is, people with dry skin break out and people with oily skin can experience dry patches or flakiness. So how can you tell what your true skin type is? A few simple questions, and a bit of introspection.

1. How does your skin feel immediately after patting it dry after a bath or shower?

• Normal and combination skin will typically feel clean and comfortable.
• Oily skin often feels as if it's not clean enough, or may even still feel slightly greasy. Pore generally appear larger on oily skin.
• Dry skin will feel tight or itchy, may look visibly taut or stretched, and often has dry patches or flakiness. Pores will likely be less visible on dry skin.

2. How soon do you see an oily shine after cleansing your skin?

• Contrary to popular belief, seeing shine on the skin is NOT in itself a sign of oiliness. It's normal for your skin to produce oil- that's how it protects itself. If you're not noticing the shine until midway through the day (say, lunchtime) then you're probably not truly oily, but rather normal/combination.
• If you notice oil all over your face within an hour or two of washing, you may be oily.
• Dry skin may not show oily breakthrough at all, or if it does, it probably won't be until well into the evening.

3. If you could change one thing about your skin, what would it be? What's the one thing that bothers you the most when you look in the mirror?

• If you think this is a horribly rude question because you're one of the lucky few that simply wouldn't change a thing, then good for you! Protection and prevention should be your main focus. Sunscreen and antioxidants are your best friends, and if you're in your twenties or beyond, look for products with peptides or niacinamide to fend off wrinkles.
• If you're already concerned with signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, or dark spots, peptides and niacinamide can help you too. Products with alpha or beta hydroxy acids can also help to some degree, but more advanced expression lines and dark spots are most effectively treated with prescription retinol.
• For those plagued by breakouts, you may want to try a gentle cleanser with salicylic acid. For dry or sensitive skin with breakouts, sulfur or charcoal are good ingredients that generally don't cause the dryness and irritation that salicylic acid can. Since acne is caused by bacteria in the skin, severe cases can be treated by prescription antibiotics. This is also a concern in which prescription retinol can be helpful, so if over the counter options aren't helping, talk to your doctor.
• Two common mistakes people make when trying to control oil are over-cleansing and skipping moisturizer- creating a vicious cycle. Over-cleansing strips your skin of its natural oil and disrupts its protective barrier, which triggers your skin to pump out even more oil to compensate. This leads to more cleansing to get rid of that oil, and so on... Instead, choose a gentle foaming cleanser and use an oil-free gel or lotion moisturizer. Your skin is smart- it’ll sense the moisture you’re providing and, in time, cut its own oil production back since the excess oil is no longer necessary.

Finally, you need to consider what kind of products you're using. In the years that I've been advising on skincare and makeup, I can't tell you how many people I've seen that are using the wrong products on their skin and are actually causing the problems they complain about. Everything you use on your skin can affect its natural balance- even something like a cleanser that's only on the skin for a few minutes per day. In fact, things you don't directly put onto your skin, like shampoo or hairspray, can make a difference. (If you're going "Huh?" then read this!)

These indicators are tough to describe in writing, but often in cases where the skin is doing confusing things it can be traced back and remedied by changing a step or two in the skincare process. For instance, if you feel tight after cleansing, but have oil peeking through by lunch, you probably have normal/combo skin but are using a cleanser that's too harsh. That's just one example...skin is as unique as...well...a finger print, and everything from diet to heredity weighs in.

Armed with this knowledge, analyze your answers to the questions above- average them together and a clear skin type may present itself. As always, if you’re not confident after reading this, feel free to leave questions in the comments (or even message me) and I'd be happy to help!

Good luck!

Brand Spotlight:One Hand Washes the Other

Halloween is, by far, my favorite time of the year. I've been known to keep the crows and tombstones up in my yard past the year's first snow, and last year I didn't even bother taking down my raven-feather wreath! Suffice it to say that Halloween decor is a vice of mine. Halloween themed beauty products? Forget about it! When I hopped onto Gothique a few weeks ago and saw that Grey's Picks of the Week were super sweet, skull-adorned, Halloween scented beauty products, it was all over!

I jumped over to One Hand Washes the Other's Etsy store right away to peruse their products and instantly something caught my eye (I know, real shocker!) Whipped Bathing Creme; sounds good just saying it, doesn't it? I'm sure it doesn't hurt that I kinda want to eat it- a bathing product that looks like a jar full of fresh whipped cream sounds like a great idea to me! It's definitely a plus that the creme is chock-full of moisturizing sweet almond oil, shea butter and vitamin E. But...the clincher for me? 2oz travel sizes available in almost 100 scents- plus, she takes requests for custom fragrances! Oh, did I mention the price? $2.50 each. Seriously. How could I not???

After checking out One Hand's extensive fragrance list, I chose three scents from the OHWTO library- Absynthe, Kettle Corn and Los Angelitos. I also contacted shop owner Becca about making a recreation of one of my (and my fiancé's) favorite shower scents ever- Maple Syrup. As luck would have it, maple is actually a component of OHWTO's Victuals fragrance, so she whipped up some for me & sent my order on it's way!

When my package arrived, I couldn't rip in to it fast enough, even though it meant cutting through the super-cute damask printed packing tape (where can I get that???) Inside I found one of most thoughtfully packaged orders I've ever received.

Inside my purple bundle, I found a cute little serpent perched atop my four individually wrapped jars of Whipped Bathing Creme. Inside their golden cocoons, each jar was sealed inside a small plastic zip-bag to protect the rest of the shipment in case an leakage occurred (it didn't). A classic spider ring and a sample of OHWTO's solid perfume in the limited edition scent, Coven, were also in the main package, with even more surprises waiting for me in to box. Cute little monster stickers (which my little monster promptly snatched up!) joined the contents with a fabulous branded post card and a mysterious envelope- sealed olde-school style with a hot wax insignia (love it!) Inside I found a hand signed receipt along with two more solid fragrance samples (Barrista and Victorian Rose).

Of course, you can expect a full review of the Whipped Bathing Cremes as soon as I've had ample time to play, but to give you a sample (as I was given) I will say that sending me Coven was a great choice. While the fragrance dries down a little too woody/spicy for my tastes, I ADORE the scent with the top notes intact, and am crossing my fingers it'll be available as some kind of bath product. Described as a "bewitching brew of jack-o-lanterns, dragon's blood, patchouli and amber, spiked with citrus and grounded out by a drop of dark and smoky vetivert", I can say nothing better than that it just smells like Halloween. You can imagine how I feel about that!

BTW, for those on the look out for vegan products, One Hand Washes the Other fits that bill too! Keep an eye out soon for my full review, or check out Becca's shop yourself in the mean time!

Product Review: Annemarie Börlind Rose Dew Hydro Stimulant Cleansing Milk & Facial Toner

If you've read my last post, you now know a little about German brand Annemarie Börlind. The company graciously sent me an assortment of their skincare products to try, and rather than try to jam them all into one monster overview (and you know how I am, it would have been HUGE!) I'm going to be highlighting a few of them throughout this week. Today we start at the beginning, as you might expect: with cleanser and toner.

Rose Dew Hydro Stimulant Cleansing Milk $29.99 for 150ml/5.07 oz

This non-foaming lotion cleanser is full of sugar-based emollients and cleansers, along with the wound healing amino acid Arginine, powerful antioxidants in the form of Vitamins C and E, Sage and Gingko Biloba Leaf Extract, and natural moisturizing factors (ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin) like avocado oil and coconut oil derived triglyceride. The Rose Water and Panthenol that the package lists as key ingredients for moisturizing have less scientific backing than most of the non-advertised ingredients in this formula.

When applied, the cleansing milk feels very soothing on my skin. I can definitely feel the oils in the formula, but we're not talking granny cleansing cream greasy here, just a nice slippery lotion that my skin likes a lot. Like everything in the Rose Dew series, the Cleansing Milk smells pretty strongly of rose (shocking!) Rose is not my favorite scent ever, but this particular formula was not so overbearing or lingering as to be bothersome. I have used rose scented products in the past that were so strong that the smell forced me to stop using them- this was far from that category.

The directions state that the cleansing milk should be applied and left to work for 30 seconds before removing with cosmetic sponges and rinsed with warm water, which is exactly how I use it. I'd never used this type of sponge before to remove makeup (they basically looks like plain cellulose kitchen sponges) and when I first saw them in the package I immediately thought "gimmick." Big surprise for me when I found I actually like using the sponge. Though it does feel slightly harsh and scratchy on my skin, the mild exfoliation leaves my skin smooth, with no redness or irritation- something I can't say for most scrubs, brushes, and exfoliating pads that I've used. For those of you who might worry about bacterial build-up on the sponge, don't fret- you can nuke a wet sponge for 2 minutes in your micro & it'll kill everything (works for kitchen sponges too!)

This cleanser did an excellent job removing all of my makeup- the only thing it didn't remove 100% was waterproof mascara, and I'd never fault it for that. The cleanser rinsed away clean, with or without the sponge, and didn't leave any greasy residue. I've had no complaints about my Purity cleanser, and always thought it cleansed well without being overly drying, but I have to admit that since I've run out of my Rose Dew Cleansing Milk and gone back to Purity, I've noticed my skin has become a lot dryer.

I would definitely purchase this cleanser again, and would recommend it for people with normal to dry skin who prefer a non-foaming cleanser to remove makeup and hydrate the skin. I give it a 9 out of 10. I can't give it a perfect score because I do think $30 for a couple months supply of cleanser is pretty pricey. I should also mention that the heavy glass bottle could be worrisome for people that travel (or drop things) often. I took my bottle on several road trips with no problem- the pump twists shut and I had no trouble with leaking or the nozzle twisting itself open, but for travel where you're not loading your own luggage, you may want to transfer your Cleansing Milk into a more travel friendly container.

Now, onto our toner. I'm going to make this as brief as I can, because you all know my view on facial toners. If you don't, read this real quick so we're all on the same page...OK, great. Knowing that I'm not a big fan of toners in general, you may wonder "why mention it?" Well, because in testing this product, I learned some information that's pertinent to much of the Rose Dew line. Those of you who aren't label readers may never notice, but for those of us that are, read on!

Rose Dew Hydro Stimulant Facial Toner $37.99 for 150ml/5.07 oz

Rose Dew toner is a liquid-gel toner that claims to "intensively moisturize the skin and stimulate it's own moisturizing and moisture binding abilities." It does indeed contain a high concentration of the humectant Sorbitol, as well as amino acids Glycine and Sodium PCA, which help to bind water into the skin. I also noticed exfoliating ingredients like urea and lactic acid, as well as anti-irritant Allantoin. Unfortunately, I couldn't help but notice another ingredient: Alcohol. Lots of it, since it's the second ingredient on the list.

After looking at several other Börlind products, I became pretty alarmed by the fairly prevalent use of a known drying ingredient in skincare that's designed for dry skin. There are certain alcohols that are actually moisturizing, but this is not one of them- listed as simply "alcohol", this ingredient refers to ethyl alcohol, which is not only drying but can cause irritation and possibly generate free-radical damage. Before taking another step, I contacted company president, Linda K. Upton, to ask "what's the deal?" here's what she told me:

"Generally alcohol is only used in products that are liquids or gels. It is used as an astringent and an an antibacterial agent/preservative...It is not drying when used in a product in a concentration below 10%, which is the case with these products."

Now, if you know me, you know I rarely believe something just because someone told me it's so. Einstein himself could explain the theory of relativity to me and I'd still research it. Multiply that by 1000 when someone is a paid representative of a brand. So I did some research, including speaking to a cosmetic chemist that I happen to know. My main question: if alcohol is the second most concentrated ingredient in this product, and it's less than 10%, then are the other ingredients (the good ones) even concentrated enough to do anything? The answer, in short, is: sure. Essential oils and extracts are often very potent, and can be effective in very low concentrations (some under 1%). My fears assuaged for the moment, I decided to try the toner.

Rose Dew is not your typical toner- it's actually a liquid/gel consistency and it's meant to be patted onto the skin with your fingertips (not wiped on with cotton). One gripe I have is the bottle- it's a typical toner type mouth, with about a dime sized opening. This means when you tip the toner into your hand, the product pours out- it's impossible to control! Your main options at this point are to dump the product back into the bottle (not terribly sanitary) or waste it. A pump or even a shaker top (like what you'd see on men's aftershave) would be much more convenient.

Aside from that, I'd say that if you're devoted to the idea of a toner, this one isn't a bad way to go- it's lightly moisturizing, soothing and mildly exfoliating. Despite my misgivings, I noticed none of the dryness or irritation I'd have expected from the alcohol in the product- though I'd never purchased it myself after seeing that on the ingredient list. Having said that, I don't think the benefits are unique enough to the toner for me to bother adding another step to my routine- especially one that costs almost $40. I give this a 6 out of 10- it's better than the average toner. But then, you know what I think about toners...

The products featured in this post were submitted for review consideration by a representative of the company. What does this mean? I didn't pay for it. My commitment is to you, my readers, and myself (it's called integrity, I like to have it). I can assure you that the opinions expressed in my product reviews are my own, based on my own research and experience; I am not paid in any way nor is the final outcome of the review influenced by the featured company.

Brand Spotlight: Annemarie Börlind Skincare

Recently, I was contacted by a representative of German skin care line Annemarie Börlind. I have to admit I was surprised; after a decade and a half in the beauty industry, it's not often I hear a name in the beauty game that I'm totally unfamiliar with. New brands pop up every day, who can keep up with all of that- but how could a brand that claims to be "one of Europe's leading natural skin care lines" slip past me unnoticed for so long? Based in Calw-Altburg, Germany, Annemarie Börlind has specialized in natural cosmetics and skincare for over 50 years. Every product in the Börlind range is tested and certified by EcoControl, an independent organization that certifies products which* (among other things):

• Adhere to strict cruelty-free guidelines. No ingredients may be obtained from dead animals, nor can ingredients or products be tested on animals.
• Never use non-biodegradable or "questionable substances"such as PEG, paraffin, petroleum derivatives, silicone oil, polycyclic musk compounds, etc. (Note: these substances are listed by the company, not by me, I'm personally fine using some of these ingredients, but know that some people aren't.)
• Must be tested exclusively on human skin by "independent dermatological clinics to ensure efficacy and skin-compatibility."
  
• Sustainability practices must be used in extraction of raw materials, as well as during the production of products. Products and packaging must be environmentally safe, readily biodegradable, and should be designed to conserve resources. In fact, the company says even it's home base is "almost completely of natural materials - stone, glass, metal. Even the glue used to install the wallpaper (printed with natural inks) is plant-based."
  
• Whenever possible, raw material is obtained through fair trade organizations and third world projects. Suppliers are verified by both state and independent organizations to ensure that they have humane working conditions, fair payment for the workers, and no child labor.

So it seems pretty apparent who these products would appeal to, but honestly, I'm not generally one of those people. I'll put pretty much anything on my face if it'll make me look better! Sure, I shy away from things that give me cancer, and I'm not exactly Cruella de Vil so if I can get results without killing puppies, all the better. To wit, I think Annemarie Börlind's ecological and social initiatives are wonderful, but I'm not choosing skincare based on warm feelings in my tummy. I'm choosing based on one thing: "does it work?" Luckily for me, Annemarie Börlind says that all of their products are proven effective "through double blind clinical studies conducted by independent dermatological clinics." In addition, they claim that they will not release any product that resulted in allergic reactions in the clinical studies. Sounds great- so what does my skin think?

Shortly after sharing some information about my skin with a Börlind PR representative, I was sent an assortment of Annemarie Börlind products tailored to my needs, most of which are from Börlind's Rose Dew series. Here's what the series is about, according to the company:

Rich hydration for dry skin. Increase moisture content by 28%, reduce wrinkle depth by 30%, and improve skin firmness by 35% with our Rose Dew series.

• Hydrates and binds moisture
• Increases elasticitcity
• Smoothes wrinkles
• Replenishes oil

I've been using these products for several months now, and can attest they have indeed increased the moisture content and oil in my skin. Since I was a teenager, my skin has been super-dry; it's not uncommon for me to peel and flake even in 90°, super humid weather. Within days of starting the Börlind line, I noticed that the flaky irritation I'd been seeing around my nose from my prescription retinol had disappeared.

Graciously, the folks from Annemarie Börlind sent me a full regimen of products to try, so you can expect to see reviews all this week with my impressions of the products. Check back later today for my review of the company's Rose Dew Hydro Stimulant Cleansing Milk. You all know how much I love my Purity, it's the only cleanser I've repeat purchased in ages. So how does Börlind's offering measure up? See you soon!

*EcoControl standards information was gathered from the EcoControl and Annemarie Börlind company websites. I am making no endorsement to the accuracy of the EcoControl certification.

Ask OutInAPout:What Do You Use on Your Skin?

Whether it's a testament to my profession or the condition of my skin I can't say, but one question I've always been asked is: What do you use on your skin? I'll admit, I've been told more than once that I have "perfect skin". I've always tried my best to assure people that this is definitely NOT the case; I owe the illusion of perfect skin to a hand deft in the application of concealer, foundation and highlighter. Having said that, I've always taken care of my skin, and though the specifics of the routine change, there are some fundamentals that I never stray from. Here, then, is what I do to keep my skin as close to perfect as possible.

Day time:

Cleanse- Philosophy Purity Made Simple

Generally I use this twice daily; once at night to remove makeup and once in the morning to refresh. I love Purity because it removes all of my makeup without drying out my skin. Being as obsessive about my skin as I am, I'm actually a double cleanser- at night when I'm removing makeup I actually wash twice, just to make sure everything is gone. I don't really think this is necessary with this cleanser, it just makes me feel better. Also, since my skin ranges from normal/dry to severely dry, sometimes I don't cleanse in the morning. Provided that I've been good and removed my makeup the night before, I may just splash my face with water when I wake up, then proceed with my normal routine. For a more detailed look at this product, you can check out my review here!

Treatment- Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair

I've recently returned to this old standby. I searched far and wide for a serum to soothe and protect my skin from environmental damage, while offering a nice moisture boost. Something with hyaluronic acid was a must- this wonder ingredient holds 1000 times it's weight in water, so it not only adds hydration, but helps your skin to retain what's already there. After months spent browsing product ingredients on-line and in-store, I decided I needed to return to my roots, and I'm so glad I did! I already knew of the soothing properties of this serum (I've even used it on sunburn before!) it's also got great antioxidant properties- back in my days at the counter, we'd cut open an apple and slather this on the cut side of one half- the treated half of the apple won't brown because it's being protected from oxidation (aka free radical damage.)

Despite it's name, I actually use this as my daytime treatment- the light and non-greasy texture make it perfect for under makeup and of course, skin needs free-radical protection during the day as much as it does at night!

Moisturize- Canyon Ranch Protect UVA/UVB SPF 30 Facial Moisturizer

The moisturizing component of my skin care routine is probably the one that changes most often. Constant technological development in this realm means that many creams and lotions skirt the line between moisturizer and treatment, so I often find myself switching up this element of my routine in search of my holy grail.

One aspect of my day time routine that has NEVER changed is that I ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a moisturizer that contains sunscreen. If I have anything to be vain about, it is the fact that for a 32 year old woman, I have very few wrinkles. (I've actually had relatives sling thinly veiled Botox accusations!) The fact is, I haven't left the house a day in almost 2 decades without sun protection on my face. That, dear readers (and relatives) is why I've had very few wrinkles.

I'm currently testing the Canyon Ranch moisturizer; a medium-weight lotion that contains a physical (as compared to chemical) sunscreen. While this may be a plus in some people's books, I personally prefer chemical barriers; I find them generally more comfortable on my skin, and physical sunscreens zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can feel chalky and make skin appear unnaturally white in photos.

This moisturizer does have anti-aging and antioxidant complexes, as well as ceramides to help keep the skin's protective barrier in tact, so there are some definite pluses. I've only been using this one for a couple of weeks, but stay tuned for a more in depth review of this product in the coming months.

Night time:

For night, my routine only changes slightly. On the off chance that I've used waterproof mascara (basically, if I've been swimming or to a wedding or funeral) I'll remove it with a dual-phase eye makeup remover like Sonia Kashuk Eye Makeup Remover. Then I cleanse just as I do in the AM.

Treatment- Prescription Tretinoin

Tretinoin is available by prescription only under several brand names, the most popular being Retin-A and Renova. It is also available in a generic form. Tretinoin is a member of the Vitamin A family, and is the only chemical that has ever been approved by the FDA to reduce wrinkles and sun damage. Tretinoin isn't cheap- even the generic of the drug runs about $90, and of course you also have to pay for an office visit to a dermatologist to get a prescription in the first place. I finally took the leap because I felt like I was wasting my money on over the counter treatments. There are so many serums, moisturizers, masks, peels, etc...out there that are writing checks that their ingredient lists can't cash. I finally figured, if I'm going to spend the money, I'm going to spend it on something that's scientifically proven to work. Makes sense, huh?

Tretinoin is available in different concentrations and formulas- since I'm sensitive and dry skinned, I'm starting out with cream in the lowest concentration available (.025%)- which is still 20 times more potent than it's non-prescription counterparts. Since the cream base contains several emollients, I often don't need a separate moisturizer, which makes the price seem less of an issue.

Moisturize- CeraVe Moisturizing Cream

On the nights that I need extra moisture, or that I don't use my Tretinoin (since I'm still transitioning into it, my skin sometimes gets irritated and I may take a day off to recover) I've been reaching for this drug store staple. As far as night creams go, CeraVe Cream is pretty bare bones- it contains ceramides to help strengthen the skin's protective barrier, as well as glycerin and hyaluronic acid to hydrate and help skin retain moisture. It's also time released, non-comedogenic and fragrance free.

Before I used my Tretinoin, I would have insisted on a souped-up anti-aging cream, but now that I'm confident I'm getting those benefits elsewhere, I kind of like the simplicity of the CeraVe. Having said that, the line recently released a PM lotion that contains Niacinamide- an anti-aging multi-threat. Though I'll likely never run out of my CeraVe Cream (it comes in a honking 16 oz jar!) I'm increasingly tempted to pick up the new night version.

If anyone is wondering, I don't use a separate eye cream for my eye area. Those of you who have been with me for a while may recall my realization that eye creams are basically the same as most facial moisturizers, except they're 3 times smaller and twice the price. I even had my suspicion confirmed by celebrity dermatologist Dr. Jeffrey Benabio.

Otherwise, that's about it. Yes, there are a few intermittent "helpers" that I turn to (Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner when I'm flaky, MAC Fix+ for a quick moisture boost when I'm feeling tight, even plain old Vaseline for my lips and nose when they get chapped and raw.) But this is the foundation of my routine. Keep in mind, what works for me may not work for you- skin type and concerns are vital indicators of what your best skin solution will be. I don't imagine I'll ever rest on my laurels where my skin is concerned- skin types change over time, and particular concerns with them. Just think of me as a skincare mixologist looking for the best cocktail of products. Of course, you can count on me to spill them all over when I find them!

Philosophy Friends & Family!

Enough said, right? Use the code happiness now through Thursday, May 20th and get 20% off of EVERYTHING on Philosophy.com! Don't know where to start? I'm still a loyal fan of Purity Made Simple cleanser (the original lotion-y formula, not the foam.) You can read my review here, if you haven't yet. If cleanser's not your bag, you can't go wrong with their yummy bath and body creations- Chocolate Cake Batter shower gel, anyone? Let us know your favorites in the comments, and have fun shopping!

Need You Be Sulfate Free?

Green is the new black. It sometimes seems as if organic is a new status symbol, and with the launch of Loreal's new EverPure hair care line, now even the mass market is in the game. It's no surprise then that the debate over sulfates seems like it's nearing hysteria. Is your shampoo causing your hair to fall out, giving you cancer, or causing birth-defects in your unborn children? Will you even be able to have children if your husband's body wash has Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in it?

Sulfates (specifically Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate) are ingredients commonly used as detergents, foaming agents or emulsifiers in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, even toothpaste. The debate rages over claims that they cause everything from birth defects to cancer. How can you tell fact from fiction?

The fact is, where application to the skin is concerned, sulfates have been proven safe for everyone except those that are allergic to them. Like most contact allergies, sulfate allergies usually manifest as an itchy rash or hives, and will subside a few days after you've stopped using the offending product.

The truth is, most of the studies that I found supporting the argument that sulfates are dangerous involved administering unusually high concentrations of the sulfates and prolonging exposure. In one instance an animal study discovered that sulfates can cause cataracts. This result was produced using high levels of the ingredient, applying it repeatedly, and leaving it on indefinitely. Beauty and personal care products that contain sulfates have much lower concentrations than those tested, and when combined with a short exposure time (you put it on, then rinse it off) the danger is very limited.

There is some evidence that sulfates can deposit onto the hair shaft and do damage, but this is in no way a conclusion. The CIR panel (the common authority in reviewing all ingredients not reviewed by the FDA) has found both sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate safe for use in cosmetics. They both carry a low to moderate risk, according to CIR. Just to point it out, several widely available organic lines (such as Giovanni, Kiss My Face and Avalon Organics) have sulfate-free shampoos that carry just as high of a risk, due to the fact that they use natural ingredients like cocamidopropyl betadine, which has allergy, immunotoxicity, and contamination concerns.

What does this all mean? If you want to err on the safe side, and find a sulfate-free formula that you like just as much as your old product, then sure, switch. If, on the other hand, you're suffering for the loss of your old sudsy, you're probably not going to die young from using it.

Product Review:Philosophy Purity Made Simple Cleanser

Since this is my first review, let me tell you: I am a product junkie. I can't think of the last time I bought the same cleanser twice in a row. I've tried a gazillion brands- from high end prestige (La Mer) to drug store oldies (Cetaphil) and rarely go back twice. Why? I guess I've never found a perfect 10.

My most recent purchase in the cleanser category was Philosophy's Purity Made Simple, which caught my eye after winning the venerable Reader's Choice Award from Allure Magazine. (Allure's annual Best of Beauty list is typically one of first 2 starting places I check out before buying a new product, the other being the Cosmetic Executive Women's- or CEW- Awards.) I should mention that this is the original formula, not the clear, high-foaming newbie.

I could have tried the product for $10 by picking up the travel size, but my retail background thriftiness just wouldn't let me waste money like that! After I checked the store's return policy (I am sometimes the victim of allergic reactions) I went the bulk route and bought the giant 24 oz. bottle for $40. While this might seem pricey, I'll point out that per ounce this makes it comparable to the pricier drugstore choices, and at the low end if you compare it to it's true competitors in the prestige brands.

Purity Made Simple is an odd little cleanser. I would classify it as a foaming lotion, however, it's important not to confuse foaming for lathering. You will not get any large sudsy bubbles using this cleanser; think more of a less cushy shaving cream consistency. This is the first time I've seen this formulation, which seems to be a hybrid of the typical lathering cleanser and the more gentle milky lotion formulas.

I have dry skin, the prescription for which is typically a cream or lotion cleanser. Later, I'll get more into this, but a good clue that your cleanser is too harsh is if your skin feels tight or stretched after you cleanse. The problem is finding a happy medium. I'll admit, I use some heavy duty stuff- the maximum cover makeup that I often use as a concealer says it's waterproof, it's often cleanser proof as well. Creams do a great job taking makeup off, but leave behind an oily residue that make me feel like I still need to wash. Lotions usually rinse cleaner, but often leave makeup behind. The reviews I read of Purity made me hopeful, and so far, I've not been let down.

Purity, despite it's disguise as a lotion, is made to be used with water. After a week of using it, I found that the best way to apply it was to wet my face first and then use about a nickle sized drop. I started out using much more, but now have it down to about a third (maybe even a quarter) of what I use when using most other lotion or cream cleansers. I noticed the first time I used it that it did indeed take all of my makeup off- mascara, shadow, even the foundation hiding in the creases of my nose! I also felt soft and conditioned after rinsing- none of the tightness that I generally experience when I use a water assisted cleanser. After using Purity for a couple of weeks, I must say, I'm quite impressed.

Out of 10, I'd have to rate this about an 8.5.

::EDIT::

After beginning a prescription retinol regimen this past spring, I have realized that Purity is a tiny bit more drying than I'd originally thought, though if I had to guess I think it's likely due to the fact that Purity doesn't leave much residue behind. After my already-dry skin adjusted to the retinol, I found I was still having issues with dryness around my nose. After switching cleansers for review purposes, I found the dryness disappeared. When I switched back to the Purity, it popped up again. I still love Purity, and will continue using it, but thought those with extremely dry skin would benefit from this info. I also feel like I should point out that this is the least drying foaming formula I've ever tried, so unless you're inclined to switch to a non-lathering lotion, milk or cream cleanser, Purity is still your best option.

Pros:
-A little goes a long way
-Removes regular eye makeup, full coverage makeup, etc...
-Leaves skin soft, not dry or tight.
-No greasy residue left after rinsing.
-Ease of use: Rinse off (I hate wasting tons of tissues or dirtying a washcloth every night)

Cons:
-Yeah, so it's not the cheapest thing out there.
-It occasionally left traces of eye makeup behind (though not often) and didn't even budge waterproof mascara.
-The flip top isn't bad, but a pump would be better ::EDIT:: Pumps are available on larger sizes!
-Philosophy isn't widely available in stores (I bought mine at Sephora, and of course, anything is available if you have Internet access.)