Quick Tip: Give Your Skin a Chill Pill!

Cold weather outside can mean all kinds of nasty things, but a little cold for you skincare can actually do you good!

Keeping eye creams, face masks, even moisturizers in the fridge can give your skin a little extra in addition to what's built into the formula. The chill of your potions on the skin can help to relieve puffiness, reduce redness and make pores appear smaller! It's a nice wake-up call too!

Just remember to keep bottles and jars tightly capped (or if possible, store them in a low-humidity compartment) to keep goods at peak performance!

Taking Martha Stewart to Task on Beauty:A Commentary

First, a small disclosure: I'm a long-time fan of Martha Stewart. I've subscribed to Martha Stewart Living since I was a 20-something living in a studio apartment. I save each and every issue, and I DVR her show daily. My three-year-old not only knows who Martha is, she asks to watch her show. My bath towels are Martha Stewart.

I was excited when the magazine recently added a beauty section. Let's face it, Martha's been around the block a time or two and by the (fantastic) looks of her, has a few tricks up her sleeve. So when I turned to page 55 in the November 2011 issue and saw the feature "Striking Gold" proclaiming that "oil isn't the skin saboteur you've always thought it was", I was psyched. "Finally!" I thought. "Martha's going to lay down the law and let people know that oil can be good for their skin!" While that indeed is the bent of the feature, I wasn't 30 seconds into the passage before I saw something that had my eyes rolling.

On the second page of the article, author Sarah Z. Wexler recommends a slew of oils for different purposes. In the cleansing category I noticed a photo of Philosophy Purity Made Simple Mineral Oil-Free Facial Cleansing Oil. As a fan of the original Purity, I skipped right to the product description. According to the article, Purity Oil "dissolves makeup with natural oils from olives, sandalwood, and geraniums instead of pore-clogging mineral oil". 


BIG roll of the eyes. Here we go again...and in an article that I'd thought was trying to dispel myths about oils! Let me restate the claim once again, for those who aren't sure what's got me in such a tizzy.

"dissolves makeup with natural oils...instead of pore-clogging mineral oil". 


Apparently Ms. Wexler, as well as the editors over at Living, missed the memo (by memo, I mean widely quoted study published in the January 2005 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology). Mineral oil DOES NOT clog pores. It is non-comedogenic. On the 0-5 scale used to rate comedogenicity (the likelihood of an ingredient to clog pores) with zero being the least likely and five being most likely, MINERAL OIL IS A ZERO. It. Does. Not. Clog. Pores.

Now that we've got that cleared up, lets back up a minute. One natural oil the magazine implies is better than mineral oil is sandalwood oil. You all know it as the musky scent so popular in college campus hacky-sack circles. Which should be a red-flag to all: fragrance is one of the most common irritants in skincare products, and natural oils don't get a free pass. Indeed, according to "Cosmetics Cop" Paula Begoun, sandalwood oil can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. I, of course, reinforced this data with several studies archived on PubMed. A brief look at the ingredient list of the Purity oil shows that it includes several other oils that are known irritants, but it also revealed something much more interesting: the first two ingredients in the product, isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate.

Why, you may ask, is this so interesting? Well, remember that 0-5 scale for comedogenic ingredients? Remember how a five is as bad as it gets- the most pore clogging potential an ingredient can have? Well, it just so happens that isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate are a 4 and 5 on that scale, respectively. Yup. Both ingredients are considered highly comedogenic. Big ol' pore-cloggers. Funny isn't it? Or notsomuch.

Now, as a member of the beauty blogging community, I see myths like this perpetuated regularly. While it's bad enough to see bloggers do it, I'm a bit more forgiving when I know it's simply a consumer passing on a personal experience or second-hand knowledge. However, when such misinformation is being sustained by someone who is looked at as an "expert" on the subject- a feature writer or beauty editor for a major magazine- I find it simply inexcusable. So many people look to these writers for education; to become smarter, more savvy consumers. If we can't trust them to do more than essentially reprint a company press-release in the guise of a beauty feature, well...you always have me ;)

30 in 30: Question #28 What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

OK, so 30 days didn't happen. My cat ate my...computer? I accepted a drink from a stranger and woke up yesterday in a motel bathtub full of ice? I thought it was 30 business days (on the planet Mercury)? Anyway, we are in the home stretch, so I'm going to continue on with...

Question #28. What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

When it comes to taking my makeup off, the fewer steps the better. I always look for a cleanser that will take all of my makeup too, and for years I’ve found that Philosophy Purity Made Simple does not exaggerate its claims of being a one-step solution. It removes just about everything but waterproof mascara- on days I opt for that, I use Make Up For Ever Sens’eyes or Sonia Kashuk dual-phase remover. For quick corrections, I use MAC Pro Eye Makeup Remover- it dries quickly with no oily residue, so I can work right over it immediately, but I find it somewhat irritating to use on my entire eye.

30 in 30: Question #27 What's Your Favorite Powder?

OK, so 30 days didn't happen. My cat ate my...computer? I accepted a drink from a stranger and woke up yesterday in a motel bathtub full of ice? I thought it was 30 business days? Anyway, we are in the home stretch, so I'm going to continue on with...

Question #27. What's Your Favorite powder?

If there’s one thing I’ve learned about myself as I’ve answered these 30 questions it’s that I seem to have a penchant for the discontinued. Alas, my favorite powder was Estee Lauder’s So Ingenious Loose Powder, which has been gone for several years now. It was superfine and silky- similar in texture to MUFE’s famous silica based HD powder. Unlike the MUFE powder, it came in skin tones, so it never looked ashy or chalky on the skin. I've been hoarding my last little bit of SI powder, but recently had to pop the sifter off to get the dregs- so now it's time to find a new favorite!

I do currently stock MUFE HD and Estee Lauder Lucidity powders in my kit, usually blending a bit of the tinted Lucidity with the MUFE powder to reduce the chance of ghostiness in my medium and deeper skinned clients, but as always, I'll be on the lookout for the latest and greatest!

30 in 30: Question #23 What Are Your Favorite Eye Shadow and Blush Palettes?

Coming up on the last 10 questions, here's the third of today's three answers:

Question #23. What's your favorite eye shadow palette and blush palette?

I’m generally not big on palettes, to tell you the truth. I’d rather pick and choose my own, rather than plunk down $30-50 on something when most likely, I'll only use one or two colors. Having said that, there are a couple that I’d recommend to anyone looking for something different.

The first is one I’ve spoken of several times, Sleek Makeup's Acid iDivine Palette.

Simply amazing shades you won’t find anywhere else. Of course, you won’t find them anywhere in the US, because fluorescent colorants aren’t approved for eye use by the FDA. This doesn’t bother me, since it is totally legal and deemed safe in the EU, where standards for cosmetic approval is typically much more stringent. That’s just my opinion, and a whole 'nother post, so...moving on...

I also highly recommend the generic 120 palettes floating around out there.

BH Cosmetics, Coastal Scents, eBay,- they’re pretty much all the same, and they’re a great way to add a ton of decent quality shades to your arsenal for about what you’d pay for a single MAC shadow. How can you beat that?

As far as blush goes, I can’t say I have a favorite palette. I have somewhere around 40 individual blushes, but that’s because I work on all skin tones. Unless you’re a pro, I honestly don’t think the average person needs more than a couple shades- of course, “need” is rather subjective, now isn't it? In that respect, I'd suggest checking out some of the empty palettes available from MAC, Z Palette or Unii, so you can create your own perfect collection!

30 in 30: Question #15Do You Wear Blush?

Keeping up with 30 questions in 30 days, today's second question is:

# 15. Do you wear blush?

Well, of course! Blush is a pale gal's best friend. I've heard more than one pigmetally challenged person say they're too pale to wear blush, to them I say: you're missing the point! Lack of color is all the more reason to add some- and believe it or not, the brighter the better I say! While bright shades may seem scary, they typically look more natural on fair skin than deep shades, which can too often turn muddy.

The trick is all in the application. First, use the right tool- if you have a hard time telling your blush and powder brush apart, it's time to upgrade! A blush brush should be just a bit larger in diameter than a quarter-maybe, say, the size of a peach-pit? After swirling your brush in the blush, ALWAYS tap the brush before you apply, and when you do, use a light hand. It's always easier to add more color than to take it away if you OD!

I personally have two shades in heavy rotation: a bright coral can go with almost everything (my current favorite is MAC Bite of an Apple) but I do like a blue-based pink (like Estee Lauder Fresh Plum) to give my cheeks a pop when I need something definitively cool toned. Though I have tons of other shades, those are mostly relegated to my pro kit; for personal use, I really feel those two are all I need for about 99% of my looks.

Product Review:Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation

A few weeks I teased about Illamasqua's new Skin Base Foundation, so now, after over a week of trial, it's time to let you know what I really think!

According to Illamasqua, the goal of Skin Base Foundation was to create the "ultimate realism foundation" inspired by the rising popularity of Asian market BB Creams (aka. Blemish or Beauty Balms). While Illamasqua hits the mark with Skin Base in terms of creating an easily bendable makeup with impeccable (yet near undetectable) coverage, in my opinion it's wide of the mark of a BB Cream, and I wouldn't substitute one for another.

Illamasqua's Skin Base Foundation is exactly that- a foundation. I received the 3 fairest shades to test (aside from the white) and as you can see from this photo, the pink-toned 02 was just about perfect.

From Top Right: shades 02, 03, 04

I was a bit disappointed that the fairest neutral shade is 06 (which I knew would be WAY too dark for me) but had a little hope that the 04, which Illamasqua describes as a "yellow/pink undertone" would somehow work. While 04 did prove too dark for my skin, I was very pleased to see that the pink undertone in the 02 wasn't at all overbearing, it melted into my skin nicely, disappearing without leaving a rosy glow. I also found that the 03 blended almost as well, though it warmed my skin up a bit with it's slightly deeper yellow undertone.

In this aspect, the advantage definitely goes to Skin Base. The foundation is available in 18 shades, from pure white to a deep neutral, making it an option for all skin tones. BBs, on the other hand, typically come in only or two shades that tend to cater to the light/medium end of the spectrum. The "one size fits all" shade is generally too deep for the ultra-pale among us, and far too light for deeper skin tones.

When it comes to coverage and finish, Skin Base is indeed reminiscent of BB Creams- a smooth, ultra pigmented cream that provides excellent coverage without settling in pores or emphasizing fine lines. The finish is natural on my dry skin- not at all dewy, but not quite matte either. The base is more on the moisturizing side, as it includes hydrating glycerin and mineral oil, so oily skin types may be able to skip moisturizer, though I do think dryer skin will need more than this alone.

In terms of similarities with BB Cream, this is where the list ends. The biggest draw of BB Creams (to me) is their multi-purpose function. Many BBs on the market provide high-level SPF, along with ingredients that whiten/brighten, reduce wrinkles, provide moisture, soothe the skin, and provide coverage for redness and imperfections.

Since Illamasqua caters to a professional clientele, they made the decision to remove the SPF that traditional BBs include, since some sunscreen actives can interfere with the photographic process. Though the Skin Base formula does contain some great skin care ingredients like Niacinamide (reduces fine lines and wrinkles, sun spots, and redness) Vitamins C and E (antioxidant protection) and Sodium Hyaluronate (moisture booster & retainer), I'd do wish they appeared higher on the list of ingredients. Of note: fragrance in this formula seems to have been bumped way down, and while I love Illamasqua's signature "cake batter" scent, this will no doubt be a big plus for some.

So what's my final call? While this won't be replacing my favorite BB Cream (which is great for lazy days when I don't need complete coverage) Illamasqua's Skin Base Foundation is certainly unique. The tiniest amount gives flawless coverage, blends seamlessly with any applicator (even fingers), feels like nothing and stays put all day. And while the skin care benefits aren't as prominently featured as I'd like, every little bit counts, right? Skin Base is definitely a new favorite- it's earned a place as my go-to on the counter and in my kit!

Ask OutInAPout:Does the SPF in My Makeup Protect Me?

On my recent post on the new FDA sunscreen regulations, a reader asked a great question. Rather than just posting the answer back in comments (where it's bound to get lost in the shuffle for all but the most devoted readers!) I decided to share my answer with everyone.

Deb asks:

Is it important to wear [sunscreen] on the face? I wear mineral makeup that has titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in the base but there, of course, is no exact protection number for that.

My answer:

In short, yes, you definitely do need to wear sunscreen on your face in addition to your makeup.

As you mentioned, many mineral makeup companies do not label their makeup with an SPF, presumably because the cost of testing sun protection ratings for FDA approval can cost up to $25,000. There are, however, tons of products from larger companies- from bronzer to liquid foundation- that do boast an SPF. In either case, makeup shouldn't be relied upon for its sun protection because the typical user doesn't apply nearly enough product to benefit from the protection the product advertises.

In the case of mineral makeup (or any other powder sunscreen), you'd have to wear about 1.2 grams on your face to get the SPF stated on the product's label. To put that in perspective, you'd have to use about 1/6th of an ENTIRE JAR of your average mineral makeup every time you apply to get the correct coverage. According to cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann, the average woman applies only 0.085 grams at a time, so you'd have to put on 14 times the normal amount! Ick!

Even though Deb's question pertained to mineral makeup, I do want to point out that the same issue exists for liquid foundations. According to Baumann, "SPF on the label of a...facial foundation is not an accurate reflection of how much sun protection these products offer. This is because the average person applies much less sunscreen product than is used in FDA testing".

Chances are, the idea of layering on even twice the foundation (let alone 14 times the amount!) probably doesn't sound like a great solution, so before you apply your makeup, make sure you apply a broad spectrum sunscreen. I like CeraVe AM; you can read my review about it here. Thanks for the question Deb, and keep them coming!

Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation: Sneak Peek!

Illamasqua's newest addition to their coveted foundation range, Skin Base Foundation, is a western approach to the ever-expanding market of Asian BB Creams. Designed to be a one stop shop for skin perfection, Skin Base performs as primer, foundation and concealer with skin care benefits to boot!

One major innovation that Illamasqua has brought to the realm of BB creams is an impressive shade range. While BB creams notoriously come in just a few shades (most best suited to light-medium skin tones) Skin Base Foundation comes in a range of 18 shades, from pure white to a deep, neutral ebony.

Yesterday I was thrilled to find a little black envelope in my mail with 3 shades of the new Skin Base Foundations to test. I'll be wearing them a bit more before I render my final judgement, but for now, here are some swatches to give you an idea of what the buzz is all about!

From left to right (starting with the bottom most shade) these are shades 04 (Yellow/Pink Undertone), 03 (Yellow Undertone) and 02 (Pink Undertone). These, in case you can't tell, are heavily swatched and unblended. The magic with these is the ease in blending- the undertones are much more subtle when applied normally than they look in this photo. For instance, despite 02's pink undertones, when blended it's a great match for my fair neutral skin.

As much as I want to start sharing all I have about these, I'm going to reserve my thoughts for a full review- keep an eye on the site in the next week to see what I really think about Illamasqua's Skin Base Foundation.

Illamasqua Toxic Nature: Swatches & First Impressions!

Illamasqua's tantalizing new collection is now available online, one week in advance of UK stores (US launch date is still TBA, but should be some time in April) and I was lucky enough to receive a few of the new shades and products to try. Here's a first look at a few of the highlights of the collection, including a peek at two of the brand new Cream Pigments!

Since Illamasqua's polish has a cult following, and this one is a doozy, we'll start there. Radium is a bright, acid-lime green with a soft pearl finish.

It applies almost opaque in one coat, but will likely require two to ensure even coverage. This is my first experience with the famous Illamasqua polishes, and so far so good- you can look forward to a review of how the polish performs in the near future! Here's a peek of it on my sad, sad little thumb nail!

Is it a coincidence that when I received this in the mail yesterday, I was wearing sweat pants this exact color? Maybe, maybe not. And while this may not be a great shade to paint one's living room (I happen to know that from experience...I guess you could say I'm fond of lime green) it is fabulous on the nails!

Now for the Cream Pigments. Designed to be a multi-use product for the eyes, face, lips and body, Cream Pigments purportedly provide a crease and water resistant matte finish.

Dab Cream pigment (pastel lilac)

Mould Cream Pigment (deep, bruised grape)

Both Cream pigments that I received were, as promised, completely devoid of shimmer. While they show as more of a cream than matte finish on my hand (meaning they had no shimmer, but a slightly moist finish) they applied with a true matte finish on both my eyes and lips.

Dab Cream Pigment on bare skin.

Mould Cream Pigment on bare skin.

So, what do you think of the Toxic Nature collection? Anyone hauling? Stay tuned next week for complete reviews of the products mentioned in this post!

The products featured in this post were submitted for consideration by a representative of the company. What does this mean? I didn't pay for it. My commitment is to you, my readers, and myself (it's called integrity, I like to have it). I can assure you that the opinions expressed in my product reviews are my own, based on my own research and experience; I am not paid in any way nor is the final outcome of the review influenced by the featured company.

Am I the Only Person Who Doesn't Like:Clarisonic?

No one can accuse me of burying the lead; I feel like I have to start out on a negative note, if for no other reason than to differentiate myself from the scads of raving reviews out there for this pricey gadget. As a 15-year veteran of the beauty industry, I very rarely get taken in by marketing glimmer, though it does sometimes catch my eye. Even more rare are the occurrences where hype from raving users makes me take the plunge. I'm an analytical girl, I trust hard numbers & peer-reviewed studies much more than my best friend when it comes to what's great for my skin. It was that nature that kept my wallet safe for years after the advent and subsequent firestorm of praise for Clarisonic, until recently.

I'm not really sure what made me finally dive in; perhaps it was a couple Ulta gift cards burning a hole in my pocket, or the fact that I really don't think I've ever seen a bad review for this thing, but at the end of January, I finally plunked down the $149 and picked up a Clarisonic Mia Sonic Skin Cleansing System. Clarisonic claims to use sonic waves to dislodge dirt & oil in the skin. According to their website, Clarisonic was proven twice as effective at cleansing the skin and removed 6 times more makeup.

Sounds kind of impressive, until you read the specifics. First, to my knowledge*, there are no published or peer-reviewed studies substantiating any of the claims Clarisonic makes on their website. So we basically have to take their word for it. Second, if you read the details of the "studies" Clarisonic has on their site, you'll see that they were done on very small sample sizes- the largest group was comprised of 30 subjects, some groups were as small as 10 people. Does this mean that only 10 people were chosen for the study, or could it mean that only 10 people were included in the results because that's how many showed the desirable outcome? We don't know, because Clarisonic didn't let anyone else review the information. Second- the methodology, aside from what they tell us, is a complete mystery. How much cleanser was used, how long was it used for, etc...Even the information they DO give make their claims less impressive.

Clarisonic cleanses twice as well...as soap and water. How many of you use plain soap on your skin? Also, in this case "cleansing" is measured by oil levels in the skin, which isn't quite the same as cleansing, is it? Just because oil is removed doesn't mean your skin is clean. Which brings us to...

Clarisonic removes 6 times as much makeup....are you ready for this....as WATER. Yeah. Did they test it against a cleanser? Of course not, why would they? We all use plain water to remove our makeup, right?

And in either study, did they compare the Clarisonic to a manual exfoliator, like a cleansing brush, scrub or even a plain washcloth? Nope. Interesting, huh?

So suffice it to say, despite the way the "studies" are used to make this brush seem like it's worth more than a $2 facial brush, there's really nothing showing us that it is. But I tried it anyway. And...

Well, obviously, I was wary at first. I have very sensitive skin, and can't really use any manual scrubs or exfoliators. My skin is dry and very thin, and even overzealousness with a washcloth will tear it, which creates more flakiness than I started out with (these microscopic tears also wreck the skin's protective barrier, creating potential for irritation, inflammation and dryness). When I began using the Clarisonic, I suspected this would be an issue, so I only used it once daily, as part of my night-time cleansing routine. To get the most objective results possible, I changed NOTHING else about my routine. I left the cleanser sample in the box & used my old standby.

For the first few weeks, I noticed little difference in my skin. I did feel that my skin was "purging" a bit (in essence, I was breaking out as my skin adjusted to the new cleansing method) and I felt like the occasional whitehead seemed easier to extract, as if it was closer to the surface. I also felt tighter after cleansing, not surprising considering the extra nightly exfoliation. This didn't worry me terribly, since another benefit Clarisonic touts is better absorption of product. However, when I woke in the morning tighter and flakier than I had before Clarisonic, what little hope I had began to slip.

Knowing that it takes 4-6 weeks to see true results of any skin-care regime, I kept with it. My skin kept getting drier and drier, and at first I didn't really connect the dots. My skin is temperamental, and it's not unusual for me to see a flake or two, especially during the winter. However, by the 4th-5th week, my skin was so dry it was literally cracking on my forehead. I began to use a rich moisture booster over my usual nightly moisture, and still, the dryness persisted. By this time, I highly suspected the Clarisonic and stopped using it. Within three days, my skin had normalized and, with the exception of one tiny spot, the cracked skin had completely healed.

That day I returned my Clarisonic. I hate returning items, but for such a big ticket item, it would have been disgraceful to let it sit in retirement under the sink. I should mention, after tweeting about my disappointment, a Clarisonic rep suggested I switch from the "sensitive" brush head that comes with the Mia to the more gentle "delicate" brush- in essence, invest another $25 so that my $150 machine will work appropriately. No thanks.

So why do so many people see such great results from the Clarisonic? I have three hypotheses.

1. The Clarisonic does exfoliate the skin. Removing dead skin- no matter how you do it- makes cleansing more effective, and allows product to better absorb (because the product isn't wasting time trying to soak through a layer of dead skin). But this effect does not cost $150, you can do it with a washcloth or sugar from your kitchen.
2. The Clarisonic ensures proper cleansing time. The timer function on the Clarisonic ensures that you cleanse your face for a full minute- which is how long most cleansers actually require to fully dissolve makeup and oil. I suspect that many people do not cleanse for an adequate amount of time prior to using the Clarisonic, and it could easily be the increased cleansing time that produces some of the positive results.
3. The Clarisonic encourages daily cleansing. You're in from the bar at 2:30 AM and ready to pass out. No big deal if you skip one night. We've all been there- but if you've spent $150 on a cleansing gadget, something tells me you might just be more likely to haul yourself into the bathroom for a quick scrub.

And, now, a bonus 4th hypothesis! The Clarisonic breeds deep-seated denial. People just don't want to believe they've wasted $150 on something that doesn't work, so they see results that just aren't there.

If you're considering a Clarisonic, my suggestion is to pick up a kitchen timer and add some gentle exfoliation to your nightly routine. Grab a washcloth, pick up a facial brush or, if you're delicate like me, try my favorite exfoliating method- facial cleansing sponges. Set your timer to one minute, and go to it. You may be surprised what improvements you'll see in your skin. But if, after all of this, you're still tempted to see what all the hype is about, my final suggestion? Keep your receipt.

*My search of the US National Library of Medicine's archives showed one published study on the Clarisonic. Done by Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. (the makers of Clarisonic) in 2006, the study essentially states that the movement of the brush's bristles help to dislodge material in the pores. None of the other claims on Clarisonic's website are mentioned in the abstract of this study.

Quick Tip: Correcting Uneven Pigmentation & Discoloration

Nobody’s perfect, which is what adds interest and variety to the human condition. I remember seeing a computer generated image of the “perfect face” a few years ago and thinking it looked totally bland, not to mention more than a little creepy. Nonetheless, most of us have things we’d change if given the opportunity, and my experience as a makeup artist has taught me that uneven skin tone tops that list.

For those with significantly different areas of color on their face (including those with conditions like vitiligo, hormonal hyperpigmentation and severe sun damage) the question becomes: which area do I match?

The answer: For the most flattering match, choose the darkest shade on your face and match your foundation to that. Though this may mean some work blending the shade down onto the neck, it’s really the best way to avoid casting an ashy or grey cast to your skin, which is what will happen if you put a lighter shade over a large dark area.

Choose a foundation that offers medium to full, long wearing coverage. Popular choices include Dermablend and Kryolan Dermacolor, I've also been a fan of Estee Lauder Maximum Cover (but haven't tried it since the formula changed last year). Apply foundation first, then touch up areas that need extra coverage with concealer. If your discoloration is the result of bruising, port-wine stains, or rosacia, corrective color techniques can be your best friend- apply corrective color first, followed by foundation and concealer.

When you've gotten the desired coverage, top your foundation and concealer off with powder to set it. You can also use a sealing spray like Mehron Barrier Spray to help keep your makeup budge-proof all day long!

Bargain Beauty: CeraVe Moisturizers

Today, while posting on one of my favorite website forums (Lipsticks & Lightsabers- thanks to the awesome Anastasia for setting up the forums for us!) I realized that I've totally dropped the ball in telling you about one of my favorite skincare finds, CeraVe Moisturizing Creme. I mentioned it briefly in my 2010 Best of Beauty post. And, OK, once again when I posted about my skincare routine, but I guess I feel like it deserves its own separate post to celebrate it's glory.

I rarely trust my skin to drugstore brands, so when I find something I like it's all the more special. Now, I'll admit, I'm far from the first person to extol the virtues of this cream- I must have read about CeraVe about 100 times in magazines, on "best of" lists, in "dermatologist recommends" columns, etc...before I finally hunted it down.

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream comes in a gigantic (for face cream) 16oz jar and runs about $15. It's pretty bare bones- the jar looks generically medicinal, and the cream doesn't feel as luxurious as many upscale creams, but it's my first choice when my skin is angry and won't put up with anything else! The medium-weight cream feels slightly waxy at first, but spreads easily and soaks in within a few minutes without ever feeling greasy on my skin. It's got glycerin to hydrate, hyaluronic acid to attract & hold in moisture (in case you haven't noticed, hyaluronic acid is a favorite ingredient of mine!) and ceramides to help strengthen the skin's natural protective barrier. It's fragrance free, non-comedogenic (won't clog pores) and it's actually time-released so it works throughout the day.

For oilier skin, CeraVe does offer a lotion formula. Since my skin is dry to severely dry, I've not used the regular lotion, but I do like the new AM version (around $13.99 for 3oz). Aside from all of the components listed above, it's got SPF 30 and the anti-aging ingredient niacinamide (a friggin' wonder ingredient, it does everything!) I like the SPF lotion, though occasionally it can seem a little light for my skin (but only when I'm super parched). The only other minus to the AM version is it's scent; probably because they don't add fragrance or other ingredients to mask the natural scent, the lotion smells strongly of sunscreen, and that smell lingers a bit when you first apply it. It is, however, a small price to pay, in my opinion, and I'd still give the CeraVe AM lotion a big thumbs up!

So...what's your favorite drug-store steal?

Hey Baby! What's Your (Skin) Type?

Knowing your skin type is vital if you want to put your best face forward- so why does it remain such a mystery to so many people? Often, we look at symptoms like acne, flakiness or dry patches and make assumptions about our skin type that may not be accurate. Sadly, the fact is, people with dry skin break out and people with oily skin can experience dry patches or flakiness. So how can you tell what your true skin type is? A few simple questions, and a bit of introspection.

1. How does your skin feel immediately after patting it dry after a bath or shower?

• Normal and combination skin will typically feel clean and comfortable.
• Oily skin often feels as if it's not clean enough, or may even still feel slightly greasy. Pore generally appear larger on oily skin.
• Dry skin will feel tight or itchy, may look visibly taut or stretched, and often has dry patches or flakiness. Pores will likely be less visible on dry skin.

2. How soon do you see an oily shine after cleansing your skin?

• Contrary to popular belief, seeing shine on the skin is NOT in itself a sign of oiliness. It's normal for your skin to produce oil- that's how it protects itself. If you're not noticing the shine until midway through the day (say, lunchtime) then you're probably not truly oily, but rather normal/combination.
• If you notice oil all over your face within an hour or two of washing, you may be oily.
• Dry skin may not show oily breakthrough at all, or if it does, it probably won't be until well into the evening.

3. If you could change one thing about your skin, what would it be? What's the one thing that bothers you the most when you look in the mirror?

• If you think this is a horribly rude question because you're one of the lucky few that simply wouldn't change a thing, then good for you! Protection and prevention should be your main focus. Sunscreen and antioxidants are your best friends, and if you're in your twenties or beyond, look for products with peptides or niacinamide to fend off wrinkles.
• If you're already concerned with signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, or dark spots, peptides and niacinamide can help you too. Products with alpha or beta hydroxy acids can also help to some degree, but more advanced expression lines and dark spots are most effectively treated with prescription retinol.
• For those plagued by breakouts, you may want to try a gentle cleanser with salicylic acid. For dry or sensitive skin with breakouts, sulfur or charcoal are good ingredients that generally don't cause the dryness and irritation that salicylic acid can. Since acne is caused by bacteria in the skin, severe cases can be treated by prescription antibiotics. This is also a concern in which prescription retinol can be helpful, so if over the counter options aren't helping, talk to your doctor.
• Two common mistakes people make when trying to control oil are over-cleansing and skipping moisturizer- creating a vicious cycle. Over-cleansing strips your skin of its natural oil and disrupts its protective barrier, which triggers your skin to pump out even more oil to compensate. This leads to more cleansing to get rid of that oil, and so on... Instead, choose a gentle foaming cleanser and use an oil-free gel or lotion moisturizer. Your skin is smart- it’ll sense the moisture you’re providing and, in time, cut its own oil production back since the excess oil is no longer necessary.

Finally, you need to consider what kind of products you're using. In the years that I've been advising on skincare and makeup, I can't tell you how many people I've seen that are using the wrong products on their skin and are actually causing the problems they complain about. Everything you use on your skin can affect its natural balance- even something like a cleanser that's only on the skin for a few minutes per day. In fact, things you don't directly put onto your skin, like shampoo or hairspray, can make a difference. (If you're going "Huh?" then read this!)

These indicators are tough to describe in writing, but often in cases where the skin is doing confusing things it can be traced back and remedied by changing a step or two in the skincare process. For instance, if you feel tight after cleansing, but have oil peeking through by lunch, you probably have normal/combo skin but are using a cleanser that's too harsh. That's just one example...skin is as unique as...well...a finger print, and everything from diet to heredity weighs in.

Armed with this knowledge, analyze your answers to the questions above- average them together and a clear skin type may present itself. As always, if you’re not confident after reading this, feel free to leave questions in the comments (or even message me) and I'd be happy to help!

Good luck!

Product Review: Annemarie Börlind Rose Dew Hydro Stimulant Night Cream

Börlind's night time offering in it's moisture-rich Rose Dew line, this cream claims to intensively moisturize the skin, stimulate the skin's own moisture-binding capabilities and minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Does it? Read on...

Rose Dew Hydro Stimulant Night Cream $44.99 for 50ml/1.69 oz

Very similar in formulation to the Rose Dew Day Cream (read my review here), this formula is rich in restorative Natural Moisture Factors and protective antioxidants. I was also excited to spy one of one of my favorite hyrdating ingredients, squalane, near the top of the ingredient list! Squalane (usually derived from olives) also appears naturally as a major component of our skin's own oil. It hydrates, smooths and softens, locks in moisture and has immune-stimulating and antioxidant capabilities. The best thing is, your body basically can't tell the difference between this stuff and it's own oil- so even sensitive and irritated skin soaks it up without a blink.

When it comes to evidence of the claim that Rose Dew minimizes "the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines." I say, sure- with a caveat. Let's take a brief lesson in beauty industry marketing. Yes, Rose Dew Night Cream may make lines appear minimized-this is a claim pretty much every moisturizer can make because wrinkles are simply less visible on moist skin. Saying that a product reduces the appearance of lines does not mean that the product is actually making fine lines and wrinkles go away; they just look better.

Aside from the addition of squalane, there's not a huge difference between this and it's daytime counterpart. I will say, the PM version is slightly thicker than the AM, with a waxier feel. It moisturized well, and even though I did feel oily at times, I can't complain of a single breakout. Like the Rose Dew Day Cream, this formula had less slip to it than I'm used to, but this was easily remedied by patting, rather than rubbing, the cream into my skin. And, speaking of similarities- my #1 complaint about this cream? The Rose Dew Night Cream jar is virtually identical to the Day Cream jar! Börlind, I'm begging you- put a silver lid (or something!) on this jar, because that little pink moon icon isn't cutting it for me- at 3am, without my eyeglasses, I just need a little more help!

This cream is a good option for dry skin types looking for basic protective moisture. While there may be cheaper creams out there that could provide similar benefits, Rose Dew Night Cream layers in a ton of good ingredients, and I think it's fairly well priced compared to other prestige skin care lines. If natural ingredients combined with sound social and ecological practices is worth a few extra bucks to you, then I'd definitely recommend giving Annemarie Börlind a try.

The products featured in this post were submitted for review consideration by a representative of the company. What does this mean? I didn't pay for it. My commitment is to you, my readers, and myself (it's called integrity, I like to have it). I can assure you that the opinions expressed in my product reviews are my own, based on my own research and experience; I am not paid in any way nor is the final outcome of the review influenced by the featured company.

Product Review: Annemarie BörlindRose Dew Hydro Stimulant Day Cream

Today, we take a look at one of Annemarie Börlind's daily moisture options: Rose Dew Hydro Stimulant Day Cream $42.99 for 50 ml/1.69 oz

Natural Moisturizing Factors (aka NMFs for us cool kids) like jojoba, avocado, and wheatgerm oils play a key role in this rich day cream designed to hydrate and protect poorly moisturized skin. Wound healing amino acid arginine and the anti-irritant allantion help to soothe irritation and strengthen skin. This formula has tons of powerful antioxidants- everything from Shea Butter (which also adds & seals in moisture) to vitamins C and E to gingko biloba and sage extracts. The addition of urea provides gentle exfoliation and additional moisture binding properties.

Börlind claims that this rose-scented day cream will stimulate the skin's moisture binding abilities and intensely protect it. To me, there's no doubt that this stuff is mega-moisturizing. It's super-rich for a day cream, definitely on target for dry to very dry skin. I've actually been known to use night creams during the day, so for me, this was ideal. I did notice that my skin looked a bit oily (a first for me!) if I didn't put makeup on, but underneath foundation this formula behaved very well. My skin retained a nice glow, but the oil from the cream never broke through my makeup or made me look shiny. One thing I did notice about the texture is that it seemed to tug a little bit when I applied it. Not a huge deal, but when I first started using it I did tend to use more than I really needed because it seemed like it wasn't spreading enough. Simply patting the cream into place, then blending, seemed to work much better for me.

Because of the abundance of NMFs and antioxidants in this cream, I definitely think the formula's moisturizing and skin protecting claims hold water. There is, unfortunately, one BIG hole in this cream's bucket. How can a company say a cream is "intensively" protective when it doesn't contain sunscreen??? In my opinion, this was a big fail for Börlind, and a deal breaker for me. Sun damage is the main cause of premature aging, not to mention skin cancer. I consider it a vital part of my moisture routine. Some people aren't as lazy as me though, so If you're OK applying a separate product to get your SPF, or don't really care about sun protection (maybe you're immortal, so skin cancer doesn't really concern you?) this may be a good option for dry skin looking for a tall drink of water.

The products featured in this post were submitted for review consideration by a representative of the company. What does this mean? I didn't pay for it. My commitment is to you, my readers, and myself (it's called integrity, I like to have it). I can assure you that the opinions expressed in my product reviews are my own, based on my own research and experience; I am not paid in any way nor is the final outcome of the review influenced by the featured company.

Product Review: Annemarie Börlind Treatment Products

Today I'm talking about repair products- a topic I take very seriously. Treatment products are designed to repair what bothers us the most about our skin; the thing we look in to the mirror and scowl at when nobody's looking. That's high stakes! If you can't swallow the entire review at once I've conveniently, and quite unintentionally, started with my favorite, and descended from there. Funny how our subconscious works sometimes, huh? Obviously, my hope is that you'll be so compelled by the fascinating nature of the review that you'll just fly through the article. However, you may need a bathroom break after Act II...

Naturesome Nature Effect Fluid $86.99 for 50ml 1.69 oz

Designed to hydrate, soothe and protect skin, Naturesome can be used by all skin types, though in slightly different applications.

The long list of proven ingredients start with nourishing jojoba seed oil. Jojoba oil is a great emollient for all skin types because it's chemically very similar to our skin's natural oil. While this may not seem a plus for oily skin types, studies have shown that jojoba oil can actually dissolve excess sebum in the pores, allowing it to be washed away. Shea butter and rapeseed oil also make appearances, adding free radical protection and added hydration. Shea butter, along with moisture-binding hyaluronic acid, also helps to lock in all of that lovely moisture.

White Tea, Vitamins C and E, and Ceramides join the party to reinforce the skin's protective barrier and reduce environmental damage, which can contribute to dark spots and wrinkles. Great ingredients, but not by a long shot are they uncommon, rare or expensive to produce-so frankly, what's in this stuff that makes it so damn expensive?

The company highlights the inclusion of sea fennel, and the fancy sounding immortelle, so I figure that's a good place to look for our dollars at work. According to my package, these ingredients "ensure a feeling of well being, happiness and relaxation". Um, OK. Not exactly quantifiable. In the non-metaphorical world, immortelle is known as an anti-inflammatory, and indeed aromatherapists use it for its calming, uplifting properties. On the other hand, sea fennel seems to fall a bit short. It may have some antioxidant and antibacterial properties, but that's really all she wrote.

Now on to the actual using, trying part. Since I have dry skin, I used this as a treatment, under my day cream. The first thing that struck me was the scent. I'd classify this as a light, slightly sweet but herbal floral. It actually reminds me a whole lot of the Victoria's Secret perfume Sexy Little Things. Applying the lotion, it feels light and non-oily, but takes its time absorbing into the skin. For people with dry skin types, think of it as a supplement to boost moisture and add environmental protection to your daily routine. For normal, combination and slightly oily skin types, I think this would work well as a daily moisturizer, but would likely be too much for extremely oily skin. My only caveat is that it doesn't contain SPF. For me, this was a non-issue since I was using it as a treatment, but for people wanting to use it as a day cream, it's a major deduction.

I like the feel and love the scent of this product, and will continue to use it, though I can't say I'll be running to replenish it when it's gone. I think Naturesome is a great product to soothe, hydrate and protect skin from environmental damage, but if I'm being honest, I think similar benefits could be found in a much less expensive product. If, however, you're looking for a treatment and this fits the bill, and you're willing to pay a premium for the piece of mind that Börlind's social and environmental practices provide, then this may be the product for you.

Orange Blossom Energizer $35.99 for 50ml/1.69 oz

This dual phase treatment is a mixture of botanical oils and extracts that Börlind says is meant to help skin regain firmness, and smooth wrinkles while revitalizing and strengthening skin.

Many of the oils that make up this formula are Natural Moisturizing Factors, meaning they mimic the way healthy skin functions. Because of this, they can help the skin's natural lipid barrier remain strong- which keeps bacteria out, reduces irritation, reinforces the skin's ability to repair and regenerate itself. The formula also includes anti-irritants and a decent dose of anti-oxidants. These components convince me that this product will indeed strengthen the skin.

This product was great to wake up to! As you may guess from the name, it's got a slightly tart, zesty scent that's derived from Sicilian blood orange extract and orange flower water. The sticky part is, both ingredients are potential skin irritants, and there's some suggestion that the extract can even prompt photosensitivity in fair skin. Luckily, these two components appear at the bottom of the ingredient list, so they may not be concentrated enough to cause problems. I certainly didn't notice any, and I'll remind you that not only am I extremely fair, but I use retinol, a prescription medication that causes photosensitvity itself. If someone were going to react, I'd think my chances would be pretty good (bad?)

With it's light-oil preparation, this product is mainly going to appeal to dry and severely dry skin types. It does sinks into the skin quickly though, and really could be used as a moisturizer for those with normal or combination skin. I liked how this felt going on, and appreciate the product's barrier strengthening potential. On the other hand, I think the formula falls short on it's firming and wrinkle smoothing promises. I didn't notice any marked improvement in that area, nor did I see any ingredients in the formula that seem to be able to cash that check.

This product is more reasonably priced than most of the Börlind products that I tried, and is a decent treatment for those looking for basic antioxidant protection, barrier repair and, of course, added moisture. However, for those looking to help ease the signs of aging, I'd suggest a product with more advanced anti-aging components.

Facial Firming Gel $49.99 for 50ml/1.69 oz

The name says it all here, according to the company, this product is meant to "give the skin a firm and smooth appearance." BUT WAIT! There's more! This slick gel also promises to minimize the appearance of pores and broken capillaries.

I don't put anything on my face without looking at the ingredients first; this gel was no exception. The first thing I noticed staring me in the face was the second ingredient- alcohol. If you read my review yesterday on Börlind's toner, you'll know that of course, I had to write the president of the company and ask "why? Why? WHY?" Her response was that alcohol is used because of it's astringent qualities, and a natural preservative, and that in the low concentrations used, it is not drying to the skin. Be that as it may, the presence of alcohol in this gel is not exactly unnoticeable since it smells a bit like a hospital. In addition to that, firming is not really a concern of mine, so I'll admit, my motivation to try this one was a bit lacking.

When I did get around to trying it, I definitely noticed a distinct tightening feel. Personally, I wasn't all that fond of it myself- having dry skin I do all I can to get rid of that feeling, but I can recognize that someone who is trying to improve the firmness of their skin may greet this tautness with open arms. Appropriately, this firming effect seems to be the result of an extract from the Baobab tree- better known as the African "Tree of Life" (you know, the one from The Lion King). Indeed. Horsetail also imparts a tightening effect, and some antioxidant properties, but can be irritating to the skin. Despite the tightening feel of this gel, Baobab actually seems to hold promise as a moisturizing and barrier strengthening ingredient, and glycerin is added to the moisture binding efforts.

While Börlind boasts of a 38% increase in skin's firmness after 28 days, I was unable to verify this, either with my personal experience or with my research. I'd like to flatter myself that my skin couldn't get 38% tighter, but lets face it: we all have areas. In the interest of science, I tested this product on an area of my body that is, shall we say, not as perky as it once was. Though the tightening feeling was quite apparent on my face, I didn't notice the effects...elsewhere. In my research, I didn't notice any ingredients that claimed to stimulate collagen production which is what would need to happen for this to have a lasting effect on the skin. Having said that, this did have a temporary tightening effect. For some, that may be enough. For right now, I'm just thankful I don't have to worry about it!

The products featured in this post were submitted for review consideration by a representative of the company. What does this mean? I didn't pay for it. My commitment is to you, my readers, and myself (it's called integrity, I like to have it). I can assure you that the opinions expressed in my product reviews are my own, based on my own research and experience; I am not paid in any way nor is the final outcome of the review influenced by the featured company.

Quick Tip: Choosing the Right Illuminator

If the impending fall/winter season has you scrambling to pick up something to restore your skin's glow, here's something to bear in mind. Despite being touted as skin tone perfectors, many iridescent illuminators and skin brighteners can actually call attention to the very thing you're trying to correct.

If redness in the skin is a concern for you, whether it's something chronic like rosacea or just a few inflamed pimples, be aware that many illuminators (like MAC Strobe Cream, Estee Lauder Spotlight, or Benefit High Beam) have pearly particles that will actually emphasize red or pink tones in the skin. While they might be a great choice for brightening some skin tones, putting this type of opalescent shade on skin that it already plagued with redness is likely to bring about a glow that's more stoplight than spotlight. Many moisturizers that are billed as "luminous" also have this added pigment. While this red cast is quite apparent in some products, it's much more subtle in others. If you're not sure, put a good sized dab in the palm of you hands and rub it it. The particles are likely to settle into the fine lines and become more obvious.

A better bet for ruddy skin is a white or champagne shade, like Benefit Moon Beam or Illamasqua Illuminator in Odyssey. For an all-over glow, mix a pea sized drop into your foundation or moisturizer, or just pat it on key areas. Keep in mind, if you wear foundation, choosing a dewier formula (rather than a matte or satin finish) may eliminate your need for a separate illuminator all together. I love Face Atelier Ultra Foundation for it's fresh, natural look on the skin- it offers good coverage and allows my skin to retain that "just applied moisturizer" look without feeling heavy or greasy.

Product Review: Illamasqua Light Liquid Foundation

Thrilled by the incredible shade selection offered by newcomer brand Illamasqua, I jumped on the British company's website and ordered both versions of their liquid foundations, each in a different shade. (The Light Liquid is not available in the US, even on Sephora's website, so if you want to try it, you'll have to pony up for the international shipping!) Stay tuned later this week for my review on Illamasqua's Rich Liquid Foundation.

I ordered the Light Liquid Foundation in shade 105, a pink based white.

Light Liquid #105 (Left) Rich Liquid #135 (Right)

It is lighter, by FAR, than any other shade I've tried (and I've tried literally hundreds of foundations.) According to Illamasqua, this is their lightest skin tone shade (the lightest shade, 100, is pure white) but I would caution anyone considering this shade as skin tone match. If you are totally unable to wear main-stream brands like MAC, Estee Lauder, Lancome, etc...then the sheer coverage that the Light Liquid provides might make this shade an option for you. Having said that, I myself am about 2 shades paler than MAC NC/W15, and this shade is still considerably lighter than my natural skin tone. This shade in one of the fuller coverage formulas (certainly the Rich Liquid, but the cream too, I suspect) would be best reserved for theatrical uses, or perhaps as a mixer to lighten deeper shades. Basically, if you can wear ANY other brand's lightest shade, then 105 will be too light for you!

I had actually ordered this with the intention of blending it with the Rich Liquid, but the two formulas do not seem to be compatible- when combined, they produced a gel-like texture that almost seemed to congeal as I was mixing! I'd have to guess that the Light Liquid and it's odd texture were mostly to blame. I found that even applied alone, it had a filmy, plastic-like feel that did not blend well into the skin. As I tried to blend, the makeup just seemed to move around until it dried down a bit, at which point it actually began to roll off! The film clung to my hairline quite obviously, and only seemed to stick to my skin where it had found a comfy resting spot- in my pores!

I tried this foundation with and without primers, and applied it with a variety of applicators- MAC 187,190, and 131 brushes, a sponge, and then finally my fingers. I did get a somewhat passable result using my 190 brush on moisturized, unprimed skin, but still found the texture unappealing. Though the formula's primary ingredients are all good moisturizers, it also contains kaolin (clay) and talc, which I think explains the chalky, mask-like feeling.

As I mentioned, this shade is too fair for me right now, and I'll admit, I'm curious to see if the blending issues would be as obvious if the shade was correct. I actually like the soft, cake-batter scent and the easy to dispense, unbreakable plastic bottle. I even think the odd texture is something I could get used to, if only the foundation looked right on my skin.

In all honesty, I actually wondered if there might be something off about the foundation that I received; perhaps it was old or had gone bad after sitting in a hot delivery truck for too long. I did contact Illamasqua, who graciously told me I could send the product back for inspection, despite the fact that I was well past the return period. If the foundation was not as it should be, they would, of course, replace it free of charge and refund my shipping on the original order. In the end though, after talking to a few other people who have tried the makeup (some who love it, mind you) I decided that, though odd, the foundation I recieved was most likely the intended texture. Since shipping it back to the UK would have cost me $12, I decided to just keep it. Though the texture and finish are a bit strange, I do think this will have some uses for editorial and theatrical work, so in to the kit it goes.

I give this foundation a 2 out of 10. If I say odd again, I think I'll shoot myself, but the texture certainly left something to be desired. While I would never re-purchase this shade, I would be curious to try another shade, just to see if that would blend out differently. The 2 points I am giving it are for the possibilities it may have as a mixer or theatrical product, and for the off chance that some of the major problems I had with this makeup could be corrected with the correct shade.

Pros:
-Wide shade range available (25 shades)
-moisturizes with squalane, an ingredient derived from olives that is almost identical to skin's natural oils
- caused no irritation to my sensitive skin (despite the yummy cake batter scent!)

- did not settle into or accentuate creases or fine lines.

Cons:
-Limited availability; only available at Illamasqua's UK based website.
-left a plastic-like film on my skin that rubbed off in a chalky residue.

-settled into pores and clung to my hairline
-Contains added fragrance, which is a known irritant. Not to mention the fact that you may not want to smell like baked goods (Neither were problems for me!)

-even for a pro artist like myself, it's virtually impossible to choose a shade online. Illamasqua's website offers no individual shade descriptions (not even a warm/cool designation), and shades do not necessarily appear to be arranged in a light to dark manner.
-after shipping, the price tops $43, making this pricey even amongst prestige foundations. (If you're a professional, Illamasqua does offer a discount.)

Product ReviewSK-II Air Touch Foundation

Finding the perfect foundation is the bane of my existence. For years, I have perpetuated a myth that I have perfect skin, which is sometimes a hefty illusion to keep up with. I couldn't list all of the brands and formulas I've tried. I rarely buy the same foundation twice- it seems that if I find a color I like, the coverage isn't right. If I like the coverage, the color is off or it won't work with my skin type. After almost 20 years of trying, I still haven't found "the one".

When I heard about SK-II Air Touch Foundation, I couldn't wait to try it. Hailed as a beauty breakthrough, Air Touch Foundation is a battery operated personal airbrush that sprays a fine mist of foundation on the skin. The company uses ion technology; according to SK-II, the positively charged foundation particles are only attracted to negatively charged areas like our skin. This ionization technology theoretically keeps the foundation from looking uneven or cakey, since the positively charged foundation can not stick to itself. This is also why you can spray the makeup on without it clinging to your hair and clothes.

Since SK-II is not widely available, I had to order the product from a Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills ( how la-dee-da!) I chose the lightest shade available and crossed my fingers. When the box arrived about a week later, I could hardly wait to break into it- I opened it in my living room, read the package insert and ran to the bathroom basically holding my breath.

Applying the foundation was the simplest thing I've ever done. Holding the nozzle on the airbrush about 4 inches away from my face, I misted on the makeup using the recommended wide, sweeping motions. The only evidence that I was actually applying something to my skin was the smell coming from the compact that I can only describe as electric static. The mist felt so light going on that I actually had to spray my hand to make sure it was coming out. The entire process took less than a minute and left my hands, clothes and counter top clean and makeup free.

I enjoyed using this product, and I really wanted it to be my holy grail...BUT (and you had to know there would be one) since Air Touch has a very limited shade range, I wasn't able to find a color that was a true match. I also felt that the coverage (beautiful when applied lightly) got very opaque and masky looking when I layered it for fuller coverage. Even in soft indoor lighting, you could tell that I had makeup on. The third strike? The cost: $165 This buys you the airbrush and one packet of foundation. Once you have the airbrush compact, you purchase proprietary refills ($90 for 2 packets) which are much more comparable in price to other high-end brands.

I have no problem shelling out big bucks for something that is truly going to benefit my skin (or the look of it, at least). Though the airbrush was neat to use and the foundation generally looked nice, I had to resign myself to the fact that this wasn't my holy grail. The premise is cool- and if I ever see a fairer shade emerge from the line, I may try again, but for now, the quest continues...

I'd rate this product a 7 out of 10. If they made a color fair enough and I never had redness or blemishes, I'd probably be in love!

Pros:
- Quick, effortless application. Just spray, set, and go.
- Very sanitary; your hands never need to touch your face!
- Light application provides pretty, luminous coverage
- Feels weightless on the skin

Cons:
- Not widely available
- Limited shade range (6 shades, though not all are available in the US)
- Can accentuate lines and pores when layered for full coverage
- Layered for full coverage it looked opaque and mask-like
- Quite pricey