In Search of Smudge:My Quest For the Perfect Eye Liner!

Is there no longer such a things as a smudge-then-set eyeliner pencil? 150 years ago (or perhaps somewhat more recently) my holy-grail eyeliner, a Victoria's Secret shade called Black Berry, was reformulated. Ever since then, I've been on the hunt for a replacement- to no good avail.

The list of attributes that I require for success on this mission:

• The Correct Color. Black Berry was the *perfect* shade. Definitely a plum-not-brown, but earthy enough that it doesn't quite read as "purple". Leans red, so it brings out the green in my eyes, but it's not so red that it made my eyes look tired or bloodshot. Deep enough for good definition. Just. Perfect.
• Smudgeable. It is essential to me that a pencil liner be smudgeable. Softening the harsh lines of a pencil is great for more natural looks, but it also lends a hand in creating dramatic, sultry, smokey eyes. A diffused line is also friendlier to those of us that have small or hooded lids- a thick, heavy line weighs the eye down and makes it appear closed and small. Not to mention, a little smudgery can virtually erase the flaws of a hastily drawn (and perhaps not quite, exactly, perfect) line. 
• Non-transferrable. As previously mentioned, I have hooded lids. That means that when my eye is open, my top lash line touches my upper lid. Too many liners stamp their imprint, leaving an arc of color just above my crease, where the two parts of my lid touch. Not sexy.
• Decent Wear. Does anyone out there touch up their eyeliner mid-day? I know I'm not going to. Just stay on there, eyeliner. 

So, really, I'm not asking for much (or am I?) Yet the perfect replacement for my old-faithful has eluded me for years now. Here are just a few I've come across in my search, and why they won't be taking that place of honor in my makeup kit.

From top left to bottom right:

1. Victoria's Secret Eyeliner in Black Berry (Discontinued): If they still made it, I'd wear it every day. I adore the color, and, as I believe the above swatches prove, the superior smudgeability. All of these strokes began as a 1/4 inch mark in the center of the swatch, which I then smudged out on both sides with my trusty Lancome #10. You can actually see that the original 1/4 inch on some refused to blend out, leaving an unsightly "line of origin", but not my Black Berry. It smudges out evenly, without disappearing, skipping over creases, or flaking. And this sample was taken with a stub that's (I'm guessing) 7 years old. 
2. Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in 1999 (Discontinued): This has been my go-to lately, but it's far from my favorite. The color isn't bad, but the shimmer tends to migrate when you smudge the liner. That is, *if* you can smudge it. There is a very small window of opportunity with 24/7 pencils: try too soon and you'll wipe it all away, too late and it won't budge (as evidenced by the blotch of unblended color in the center of the swatch). Oh, and when I went to add the link to this, I found out this shade has been discontinued, so I guess it's good that I didn't love it! 
3. Tarte skinny smolderEYES™ Amazonian Clay Waterproof Liner in Golden Tiger's Eye: This is one of my newest acquisitions. The color is a little less vibrant/more brown than I like (which may have prevented my purchase, if the Ulta I visited had had a tester available). Of course, this isn't a strike against the pencil itself, it's just my personal preference. The liner itself smudges fairly well- evenly spreading the color without sheering out too much. My biggest gripe about this pencil is how damn soft it is. The tip broke off the first time I used it, and even after sharpening and reapplying with very little pressure, the lead was still smushed in to one side. Not totally a deal-breaker, but it definitely takes some adjusting.
4. NYX Retractable Eye Liner in Deep Purple: as you can see, this doesn't smudge at all, it simply wipes away. Color wise, I liked it, and the price is definitely nice, but if it fails the smudge test, it's not my holy grail.
5. Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes in Matte Black: This one is obviously not in my desired color range, but I felt it deserved comparison as such a coveted and well-known product. It's definitely intense pigmentation wise, and smudges relatively well. I recently ordered two of the plummier shades in the line, Shimmering Plum (4L) and Burgundy (18L), and I'm excited to see how they stack up!
6. Stila Smudge Stick Waterproof Eye Liner in Lionfish: Again, the shade isn't at all close to what I'm looking for, nor is there really one any closer in the range. But, since this is actually called SMUDGE stick, I had to try it. As you can see from the swatch above, the name is a bit of a fib. Yes, the pencil smudges, but not at all evenly- the original line will stay in place, and blending can get flaky and patchy where color pulls away from the skin completely. Boo.

So, that's it for now. Of course, I have others that I've tried, but these were the notables. I will definitely post an update when I get my new Make Up For Ever liners, and my internet search has told tale of a Cover Girl liner that may fit the bill- that's going on my list too!

What's your favorite pencil liner? Is smudgeability a factor for you, or is something else your make-it-or-break-it trait?

Eye of the Day: Weeping Cherry Blossom

This is one of my very favorite looks for spring nights out; the vibrancy of the pink is a nice change after all of those deep, dark winter hues, but at the same time, the matte finish, bold liner and semi-cut crease really step up the drama. Not into pink? Use any other light-bright shade to customize it!

First, use a skin-toned primer on your lid from lash to brow- today I used Urban Decay Potion Primer. Next, using a short, dense paddle brush (MAC 239) brush a mid-tone bright matte pink shadow (Kryolan Flamingo) along the entire lash line, blending up and out to just above your natural crease.

Next, line your eye with your favorite liquid liner (I used Lanome Artliner in Noir). Lining before you contour your crease is essential- the wing has to end at the natural crease of the eye- trust me, it makes it look! To determine the correct angle, imagine making a line from the outer corner of your eye to where it would meet the end of your eye brow.

After lining, load a small smudger brush (my beloved, Lancome #10, has been discontinued) with a deep, matte eggplant shade (MUFE 160). Starting at the outside corner of your eye, where you ended your liner "wing", use light sketching strokes and follow the underside of your brow bone in, stopping at about the center of your lid (above the pupil). A lot of tutorials show this step with a pencil brush like MAC's 219, but unless your lid space is huge, I think a small smudger is lots easier to work with here.

After you've got your crease "cut" you can lightly begin blending your eggplant line up in the outer 1/3rd of your eye, working toward the brow. I stick with the smudger brush for most of this process, wiping excess shadow off before I start to blend.

When I'm relatively comfortable with the fade of the plum shade, I do turn to my pencil brush; using it clean at first. Use a windshield wiper motion to blend the deep crease color into the skin below the brow bone. Next, add just a tiny amount of your matte pink (the same shade you used on the lid) and blend over the top edge of where your plum has faded out. Make sure you're working on top of the eggplant shadow- if you put the pink on bare skin you won't get the subtle gradient we're looking for. Since I don't have a lot of space between my lid and brow bone, I like to leave some space to make the area look larger, so I stop shy of taking the pink up to the brow.

Next, go back to your small smudge brush & pick up a little bit of matte black shadow (I used the one from my Sleek Acid Palette). With a light hand, work the black in the corner V to give some depth to the look. At this point, I lined my water line (all the way) and lash line (just the outer half, tapering off at the pupil) with Makeup For Ever Aqua Eyes pencil in matte black, and smudged over that with the black shadow left over on my brush.

Of course, you could stop here and you'd have a very eye-catching cut-crease look, but I wanted something just a touch softer. Grab your pencil brush once more and place it, without applying additional color, in the crease just inside where your liquid liner meets the crease color. Keeping it in place, move the brush in small circular motions. You're basically using the motion of the brush to bring a little of the black and eggplant into the outer corner of the eye. If you need to, you can add the tiniest amount of eggplant to your pencil brush, but keep it super light- you don't want to blend away the defined crease.

To finish, add a bit of white shimmer to the inside tear-ducts and under the eye brows, blending into the pink slightly. Top it off with mascara and you're done!

Eye of the Day: Mulled Cranberry Cider

It's been a long time since I've done an EOTD...honestly, it's been a long time since I've done anything fancy makeup-wise at all (on myself anyway!) Having a VERY active almost-four-year-old takes makeup down a few notches on the priority list, and the fact that my camera is crap and I can pretty much never get pictures that decently portray my work doesn't help. Really, my blood pressure is high as it is, so spending the time to create a look and then not being able to get a photo that shows accurate color, depth and texture (sometimes I'd even settle for 2 out of 3) is sometime more trouble than I can bare. But enough whining!

The other day I was talking to the lovely Mika of aijuswhanakno, about a particular brand that I have no great love for, Urban Decay. Mika mentioned that she was a little jealous that I had the first Book of Shadows and didn't even like it. This got me to thinking, maybe I need to get it out and give it another try. That's where this look came from.

I wanted to do something seasonal, but not totally expected, and I also wanted to work strictly within the palette. I decided if I was going to give Urban Decay some love, I was going to go in full force: the first shade I dipped into was glitter-bomb extraordinaire, Midnight Cowboy.

After applying NYX White Eyeshadow Base (not my favorite, but it was the closest at hand) I used my MAC 239 to dab Midnight Cowboy on the inner corner of my eye, not quite 1/3 of the way toward the center.

Again with my 239, I took Baked and put it on the rest of my lid, blending it lightly into the Midnight Cowboy by tapping gently with my finger. I took the Baked out to the outer corner of my eye, and blended it just up to the crease.

With a MAC 219 I added Roach, concentrating the color toward the outer corner and crease and lightly pulling it in toward the midpoint of my lid.

Above my crease, I used a MAC 217 brush to blend Last Call into and slightly above where I'd placed the roach, stopping just on top of my orbital bone.

When it came to blending and hi-lighting my brow bone, I ran out of luck with my Book of Shadows. Of the 16 shades in the book, not one was light enough or matte enough to use as a blending shade, so I grabbed my Sleek Au Naturel palette and used my MAC 217 with Honeycomb to soften the top edge of the Last Call. I added a bit of Nougat under the high point of my brow and blended it outer end of my brow. As a last though, I took a little bit of baked in the inner 1/3 of my crease to add some interest and soften the transition from the berry-plum Last call and the fair champagne of the Midnight Cowboy (you can see this touch better in the picture below, it's not as apparent in the pic above).

I applied UD 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Rockstar on the top lash line from the outer corner inward to just about the pupil, and just about to the outer 1/4 of my bottom lash line. Using a smudger brush I softened the top line and pulled the bottom line in to about the mid-point of my eye. Then I used the same brush to apply a bit of Last Call on top of the liner. I cleaned my brush, applied 24/7 pencil in Eldorado to my lower waterline and the very inner corner of my eyes, and used my smudger to add a bit of baked to the inner corners and inner, lower lash line, blending the gold shade into Last Call.

I added some Make Up For Ever Smoky Lash in black, and called it a day!

You'll have to forgive me for the pictures- the lighting is awful, and the cropping and wonky angles are even worse, but these were the shots that I felt best captured the colors and placement. Hauling my Book of Shadows out of the depths one more time was a nice challenge- though that Midnight Cowboy almost made me regret my decision from the get go. One thing you can see in the pictures are some of the tiny white flecks that show the migration path Cowboy's silver glitter moseys along on. Keep in mind, this was after constant dusting and sponging to remove the glitter from beneath my eyes. Finally, I grabbed my makeup wipes and wiped away the glitter- 3 or 4 times! I re-did my foundation, but still, by the time I was ready to take pictures, the only place this glitter wasn't was on the part of my lid where I'd actually put it. Grrr....

As I mentioned, there also isn't a great hi-lighting option in this set for fair skin. There's also a lack of contouring shades, being that even the deeper shades like Roach are satiny and reflect light- making it really hard to get good depth out of them. The one good, dark contour in this palette is Perversion, but to my eye this "jet black" leans a little blue, so I skipped it this time lest I muddy up my look.

Product List:

• NYX White Eyeshadow Base (I prefer Urban Decay Primer Potion)
• UD Midnight Cowboy (pale champagne with chunky silver glitter)
• UD Baked (an almost-bronze gold)
• UD Roach (satiny deep copper brown)
• UD Last Call (mid-tone satin plum-berry)
• Sleek MakeUP Honeycomb (matte light wheat)
• Sleek MakeUP Nougat (matte off-white) 
• UD's 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Rockstar (charred eggplant)
• UD's 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Eldorado (gold)
• Make Up For Ever Smoky Lash mascara in Black.

Brushes:

• MAC 239 (small dense, short-bristled paddle brush)
• MAC 219 (pencil brush)
• MAC 217 brush (full, fluffy, round-tipped brush)
• Lancome #10 Smudger Brush

The Sleek product featured in this review was submitted for promotional consideration by a representative of the company. 

30 in 30: Question #28 What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

OK, so 30 days didn't happen. My cat ate my...computer? I accepted a drink from a stranger and woke up yesterday in a motel bathtub full of ice? I thought it was 30 business days (on the planet Mercury)? Anyway, we are in the home stretch, so I'm going to continue on with...

Question #28. What's Your Favorite Makeup Remover?

When it comes to taking my makeup off, the fewer steps the better. I always look for a cleanser that will take all of my makeup too, and for years I’ve found that Philosophy Purity Made Simple does not exaggerate its claims of being a one-step solution. It removes just about everything but waterproof mascara- on days I opt for that, I use Make Up For Ever Sens’eyes or Sonia Kashuk dual-phase remover. For quick corrections, I use MAC Pro Eye Makeup Remover- it dries quickly with no oily residue, so I can work right over it immediately, but I find it somewhat irritating to use on my entire eye.

Illamasqua Theatre of the NamelessReview & Swatches!

It's no secret that I'm a fan of Illamasqua. The announcement of every new collection has me waiting with bated breath for just a glimpse of the campaign. This season's Autumn/Winter collection, Theatre of the Nameless, is no different. Dark, opulent tones blend with flashes of iridescence evoking the dank mustiness of an illicit nightlife long past...or simply hidden out of sight?

"In this nocturnal den of the dissident leaders of underworld subcultures, exotic dancers rub shoulders with actors and anarchists."

With copy like that and images like these, what's not to like??? Oh, what about the products, you say? Well, I was lucky enough to have the chance to try several of the collection's items: Intense Lipgloss in Facade, Precision Ink in Havoc, and the brand new Masquara in Raven.


Intense Lipgloss in Façade is described as a high-shine Grey Pink, though to me it's more on the mocha-taupe side (more brown, less grey). For those that have never tried Illamasqua's Intense glosses, they are highly pigmented and do indeed pack a lot of shine- I'd almost call them a liquid lipstick with the shine of a gloss. The texture is somewhat thick and sticky (not unlike MAC Lipglass) so the color wears well.

Intense Lipgloss in Façade, on bare lips

Precision Ink in Havoc is a fine felt-tipped liquid liner pen in a rich, red-aubergine shade. The liner is long wearing and waterproof, and despite a very wet feeling, it is very quick-drying. The dry speed can be a benefit and downfall at the same time: it is much less likely to transfer and smudge on my eye as I'm applying (which is great since I have a hooded lid) but if you're someone who likes to perfect your line by cleaning up the edges with a cotton swab or sponge, you'll have to work quickly- once dry the product does have a tendency to flake if fussed with. 

I also have to add I adore the shiny, almost patent leather-like finish this dries down to! You can see the shine somewhat in the eyeball pic, but more so in the hand swatch. I also smudged the bottom line on my hand to better illustrate the color. 

Finally, Illamasqua's New Masquara. Raven is a midnight black shade (and the only one currently available) in this lengthening, defining mascara. The brush is a traditional, somewhat large style with full bristles, not un-like a larger version of Make Up For Ever's Smoky Lash. The formula applies well (though for the first week or so I did find I needed to wipe away the excess mascara from the wand before applying) and results in a very well defined, much longer and slightly thicker looking lash. The effect reminds me of Dior's coveted Diorshow, with one notable difference: Illamasqua's Masquara wears all day with no sign of flaking, or smudging!

Have you tried anything from the new collection? I'm awfully curious about the new Nail Varnishes; I know Illamasqua is at the top of the polish game, so of course new colors wouldn't be enough- the 4 new Theatre of the Nameless shades dry down to a waxy, rubberized finish, which seems like the perfect evolution of last season's matte trend. I can't wait to try them!

The products featured in this review were submitted for promotional consideration by a representative of the company. What does this mean? I didn't pay for it. My commitment is to you- my readers- and to myself (it's called integrity, I like to have it). The opinions expressed on Outinapout.com are my own, based on my own research and experience; I am not paid in any way nor is the final outcome of the post influenced by any outside party.

30 in 30: Question #27 What's Your Favorite Powder?

OK, so 30 days didn't happen. My cat ate my...computer? I accepted a drink from a stranger and woke up yesterday in a motel bathtub full of ice? I thought it was 30 business days? Anyway, we are in the home stretch, so I'm going to continue on with...

Question #27. What's Your Favorite powder?

If there’s one thing I’ve learned about myself as I’ve answered these 30 questions it’s that I seem to have a penchant for the discontinued. Alas, my favorite powder was Estee Lauder’s So Ingenious Loose Powder, which has been gone for several years now. It was superfine and silky- similar in texture to MUFE’s famous silica based HD powder. Unlike the MUFE powder, it came in skin tones, so it never looked ashy or chalky on the skin. I've been hoarding my last little bit of SI powder, but recently had to pop the sifter off to get the dregs- so now it's time to find a new favorite!

I do currently stock MUFE HD and Estee Lauder Lucidity powders in my kit, usually blending a bit of the tinted Lucidity with the MUFE powder to reduce the chance of ghostiness in my medium and deeper skinned clients, but as always, I'll be on the lookout for the latest and greatest!

30 in 30: Question #24 What Formula of Eye Shadow Do You Prefer?

We're down to the final few questions, and today's a two for one: here's the first of today's two answers:

Question #24. Which do you like: cream, matte, powder, sheer, or shimmer eye shadows?

I’m definitely a powder shadow girl- they’re easier to apply and blend, and generally stay on better than their cream counterparts. I generally favor pearl/satin finishes, because I find they’re generally most pigmented and truest in pan-to-skin color. Matte shadows have evolved a lot in the past several years, and ones from brands like Inglot, Make Up For Ever and Sugarpill now take up almost equal space in my kit. I rarely use highly shimmery or glittery shadows, as pretty and multifaceted as they are. While I will bust them out for special events, they don’t really fit my daily personal aesthetic, and since even microglitter can wreak havoc in photos, they’re no use in my pro kit.

30 in 30: Question #21 Where Do You Buy Your Makeup?

Coming up on the last 10 questions, here's the first of today's three answers:

Question #21. Where do you buy your makeup?

Where don’t I buy makeup? Seriously! Lately, even mass market brands that I used to look down my nose at have majorly stepped up their games (I've been stalking my local Walgreens looking for a new Wet n Wild polish!) so it seems like nothing is off limits anymore. As a pro, I'm obsessed with using the best- not just for myself, but for my clients. But, I like to get the most for my money, so places that give industry discounts rank high on my list. Since it's the only place that offers a pro discount with a location I can actually walk in to last minute, MAC is a frequent haunt. When I have the foresight to order ahead of time, Naimes Beauty Center is a favorite- they offer pro discounts from 20-40% on a ton of brands including Bobbi Brown, Eve Pearl and Make Up For Ever. Naimes is also a great place to stock up on supplies- they carry everything from set bags to sponges.

30 in 30: Question #8What's Your Favorite Daytime Look?

My answers to 30 makeup questions in 30 days! Today's question is:

#8. What's your favorite daytime look?

Nothing! Haha, wouldn't you just love me if I answered that and nothing else? In all seriocity, most days I'm at home with my 3-year-old and I do more finger painting than face painting. Though I love makeup and it's a big part of my life, I don't want my daughter to grow up thinking it's a daily necessity, so on most days, it's skincare in the AM, maybe some BB Cream fi we're spending time outside, and that's it. Of course, most days I'm testing one thing or another, so it wouldn't be odd to see me bare-faced and purple lipped, but I can't really call that a "look" can I?

When I do need a quick, easy look that I can wear with almost anything, I start with foundation (see my answer to question #4 for specifics) concealer (Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage in SC-1) & powder (my favorite is Estee Lauder's discontinued So Ingenious Loose Powder, but I also use Make Up For Ever HD Powder). My every day blush lately is MAC Bite of an Apple, which gives me nice, natural looking flush.

For an easy, flattering eye I line the outer half of my top & bottom lid with Urban Decay 24/7 liner in 1999, a raisiny plum that emphasizes the green in my eyes but still looks soft & neutral, add a white pearl highlight under the brow and on the inner corner of my eye, and finish with some mascara (the brand changes constantly, but it's always black) and a groomed brow. My favorite brow enhancer lately is MAC Penultimate Brow Marker topped off with an auburn brow gel. These keep being discontinued, and I think my current favorite from Bourjois has been the latest victim, so I'll be on the hunt for a new one.

Finally a bit of color on the lip- and we've already covered that: it's usually Sleek Pout Polish in Perfect Plum.

That's it for me- what about you? What are your "can't live without it" daily essentials?

This Week's Sales: Bare Escentuals & Philosophy Friends & Family, Supergoop, Temptu...and more!

Bare Escentuals Friends & Family

Get 20% off this Thursday, June 16, 2011 through Sunday, June 19, 2011 (ends 11:59 pm PDT) at Bare Escentuals boutiques in the U.S.A as well as BareEscentuals.com and mdformulations.com only. Use coupon code LOVE at checkout.

Make Up For Ever on QVC:

Wednesday, June 15th at 1AM EST. Not exactly a sale, per se, but there will be exclusive sets offered, like a full-size set of 3 Aqua Eyes liners for $34 (that's about 37% off!)

Philosophy Friends & Family:

25% off all orders through June 16, 2011 with code philosophy25

Beyond the Rack

Monday: Sea Tone

Thursday: Designer Fragrances for Him, Beauty Boutique feat. Lancome, MAC, Smashbox, Urban Decay, Philosophy & more.

Brand Alley

Tuesday: Rio Salon Solutions

If you're not a member yet, click here for an invite and we can both earn a £10 voucher!

Gilt Groupe

Tuesday: Temptu Retouch

HauteLook
Monday: Carol's Daughter

Tuesday: Smashbox (select items from the even will be available to Facebook fans starting Monday at 12 PM PST)

Wednesday: 360 Skincare, Ginger & Liz Colour Collection
Thursday: Rock & Republic Beauty

Friday: Beauty Gadget Event

Ideeli

Monday: DermaNew

Rue La La

Friday: Corioliss

Swirl

Tuesday: Supergoop

Ask Outinapout: FoundationWho's the Fairest of Them All?

Today's question comes to us from Meghan, who writes:

Hello!
I came across your blog while looking for a foundation with a color similar to Make Up For Ever HD in Pink Porcelain. I have a very difficult time matching colors to my skin tone (MUFE is just the slightest bit too dark for me). I saw in your post that you used that shade, and I was wondering if you could recommend some other foundations or powders? I looked through your entries, but had a hard time finding other posts about foundations. Normally I would not email someone about this, but it is rare that I find people who could help me with this! Thank you so much.

My Answer:

Meghan,

I'm happy to oblige! Coincidentally, I was literally just talking about this with a friend, so it's fresh in my mind. I'm also a little embarrassed that I don't have more foundation advice on my site, since finding the best one is kind of an obsession for me!

Right now, my daily foundation is Graftobian High-Def Glamour Creme Foundation in either Graceful Swan (warm) or Bombshell (neutral, slightly deeper than Graceful Swan).

When I went to grab the link for this post, I was thrilled to see that the line has recently expanded the range with five- FIVE!!!- even fairer shades, making this brand a great choice for the palest among us! If you're not familiar with Graftobian, they are a well-known theatrical brand, and can be found online or in well-stocked costume or theatrical supply stores. They're also the least expensive foundation I use- a .5 oz pot retails for $14.99.

The coverage with Graftobian HD is easily adjustable from sheer to full. I like moderate coverage, so I apply it with my e.l.f. Studio Powder Brush and blend it into the skin using small, circular motions (mineral foundation fans will know this as "buffing"). This formula has a natural finish and I'd recommend it for all but extremely oily skin types.

Another favorite is Nars Sheer Glow Foundation in Siberia.

I'm not really sure why Nars chose to call this "Sheer", because it's really not at all- it's a nice, medium coverage liquid. Also, don't let the word "glow" in the title fool you into thinking you'll see any shimmer or opalescence- the finish is satiny, not shimmery or dewy. I almost didn't try it because of the name, and I'm so glad the Nars advisor insisted on giving me a sample! Siberia is also the fairest shade of foundation I've been able to find among my locally available mall selection. Sheer Glow is designed for normal to dry skin; for those who are on the oilier side of the spectrum I'd suggest Nars' Sheer Matte Foundation, which comes in the same shade range.

Somewhat easier to find than my previous options is Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick in Alabaster.

Coverage and finish is similar to the Graftobian, but the shade is a tad deeper than I'd like, and I found the tone to have more orange than I cared for, which is why I moved on. It bears mentioning, however, because I still feel it's a notch fairer than other department store brands.

Another line to check our- if you don't mind ordering internationally, is Illamasqua- their fairest shade is pure white! They've recently revamped the line & added a shade 115, which is described as "for very light skin with neutral shade undertones" which describes me perfectly. I've used their rich liquid and the old formula of the light liquid, so make sure you check out those reviews & swatches before you shop! Also, some of you may be aware that some Sephoras carry Illamasqua, and it is also available online. Unfortunately, Sephora does not carry the entire Illamasqua shade or product range, which includes the ultra-fair shades I mentioned here.

Finally, I would be remiss if I didn't mention Face Atelier Ultra Foundation in Zero Minus.

Face Atelier is a pro line that's available online and at very select locations in the US and Canada. The Zero Minus is a pure white liquid that can be blended into existing shades to lighten them without diluting the coverage. I adore it, and highly recommend it to anyone who has ever had to compromise the coverage, finish, formula or tone they want simply to get a shade fair enough.

So, that's about it! I have yet to find a drugstore brand that is light enough on it's own. If you don't need tons of coverage and have normal skin, you can likely find your shade in mineral powder makeup- the fairest shades I've tried are from brands Meow Cosmetics and Archetype Cosmetics. I have dry skin and like my foundation to cover imperfections, so mineral makeup doesn't work for me- which is why I don't really review them :) I know I have TONS of readers who are mineral fans, so feel free to sound off in the comments!

Edit: After a few comments mentioned Revlon Colorstay in Ivory, I thought I'd post a quick pic comparing the Revlon to my two current favorites by Graftobian.

Colorstay in 110 Ivory is in the center, on the left is Graftobian Graceful Swan. On the far right is Graftobian Bombshell. As you can see, the Revlon shade is deeper than either Graftobian option, I'd say about a half to full shade darker than Bombshell to the right, and almost two full shades deeper than Graceful Swan to the left. The biggest difference, of course, is in tone. Graceful Swan is a clean warm tone- a definite yellow base. Revlon Colorstay, when heavily swatched like this, appears peachy on the skin- a mixture of orange and pink tones, but definitely leans toward the cool pink side when blended. Bombshell looks a bit more warm in this photo than it looks in real life- it's a good neutral shade with no dominant undertones.

Allure Magazine's 2010 Best of Beauty:A Pro's Commentary

It's the list heard 'round the world; Allure’s annual Best of Beauty issue (October 2010) is the issue to beat all issues. Now considered a major industry accolade, this list of over 200 skincare, cosmetic and hair care products is meant to represent the best of the best; “handpicked and field-tested" by the magazine's editors.

Even after more than a decade in the beauty industry, I still run to this issue to see what other beauty pros choose. I picture magazine beauty editors with towering skyscraper stacks of product on their desks; they have access to the best, newest, most exclusive products out there. Every year this single issue contributes vastly to my ongoing list of “must try” pretties and potions, yet I also find myself shaking my head over some of the so-called “best”. This year, I thought I’d share some of my most noteworthy commentary with you, and maybe throw in a few suggestions myself!

Allure’s Best Eye Shadow (Color): Nars Daphne.

I know Nars has a great reputation, and some of their colors are to die for, but when it comes down to it, I’m not a believer. I have several shades (to be fair, I don’t own Daphne) and find that regardless of which base I use or how I apply, the vibrant out-of-the-pan shade fades (even sometimes becomes muddy) on my eye before I’ve even finished applying my mascara.

If you’re looking for a great vibrant purple, I suggest Sugarpill’s Poison Plum. It’s not a dead-on dupe; Daphne appears to be slightly more of a blue-based violet. Sugarpill's Poison Plum has a tad more red and also has a tiny bit of microglitter in it, but reads on the eyes as a matte. Oh, and it's half the price!

Poison Plum shown in the crease, shown

w/ Sugarpill Buttercupcake and Decora

Another great option is the purple shade in Sleek’s Acid iDivine Palette. While it does have some of the same fading issues as the Nars shadows, you can pick up an entire 12 shade Sleek palette for less than half what a single Nars shadow costs, so it's hard to go wrong there. In fact, if we’re giving awards out for shadow color, I’d give a nod to the entire Acid palette- how many of you have run into an honest-to-blog neon eyeshadow before? Sleek’s Acid palette has 4 shades so bright I had problems photographing them without a glare!

The purple I'm talking about is bottom left, but do

you see the 4 in the middle? Bicycle reflector bright!

Allure’s Best Lengthening Mascara: CoverGirl LashBlast Length

I’m so glad Allure doesn’t split the mascara into prestige and mass categories- I want to know which mascara is the best, and I couldn’t care less if I have to go to a drugstore or Saks to pick it up.

While I wasn’t as fond of the original LashBlast as everyone else seemed to be, the lengthening formula is one of my favorites. It gives great length and definition, doesn't flake or smudge, and I literally can not get this stuff to clump- even when I try!

Allure’s Best Brow Groomer: Clarins Eyebrow Kit Pro Palette

I’ve never tried Allure’s top choice, and I wouldn’t mention anything if I hadn’t found a holy-grail brow product this year: MAC’s Penultimate Brow Marker. This fine-line liquid pen comes in one universal shade that works for most hair colors. It fills and creates a great shape, without looking overly done or drawn on. Best of all, it stays on all day. The one caveat: last I knew, it was limited edition, so perhaps after my back-ups run dry I’ll try Allure’s recommendation.

Allure’s Best Lipstain: Tarte LipSurgence Natural Lip Stain Pencil

I have this product in the shade Joy, a pretty peach that goes a bit more coral on my naturally pink lips. One of my go-to lip products, it applies smoothly and feels like butter on my lips. However, I don’t think stain is an accurate description- while it may leave a bit of color behind after the balm wears off, it certainly doesn’t linger with the color intensity it’s first applied with.

Allure’s Best Dry Shampoo: Tresemmé FreshStart Waterless Foam Shampoo

As if I psychically knew this would be included in Allure’s list, I actually just picked this up last week on a whim. I grabbed it because I noticed it was designed for dry to normal and curly hair, and that’s me.

It felt odd applying a wet mousse to my my hair while it was dry, and it was a bit awkward trying to work it into my roots without getting the rest of my hair wet. It did dry faster than I expected and my hair was a tiny bit cleaner than before use, but this stuff wasn’t nearly as effective as my current favorite: Batiste Dry Shampoo.

Allure’s Best Powder (Loose): Make Up For Ever HD High Definition Microfinish Powder

Who hasn’t tried this stuff? Oh...you haven’t? I say skip it. Not that it’s a bad product, but it’s way overpriced considering it’s pure silica. MUFE charges $30 for .35 oz of a product that can be bought from online wholesalers for less than $5.00 for an entire ounce! There is some controversy that claims that the two products are not the same and that wholesale silica microspheres aren't safe, but personally I just think this is marketing rhetoric. The type of silica used in cosmetics is silica microspheres. The type of silica that causes lung disease is crystalline silica. Not the same stuff.

Aside from the price, I feel like the MUFE powder can look chalky if not blended well, and doesn't seem special in terms of finish or coverage.

Allure's Best for Sensitive Skin: Kinerase Cream

I've written about Kinerase in the past, and while it wasn't a review per sé, it gives you some insight on my opinions of the product. I actually have used Kinerase Cream, and wasn't a big fan (as a matter of fact, about 1/3 of the tube sits, unused, in my medicine cabinet). I didn't notice a thing in terms of fine line or spot reduction, and despised the chalky white film the product left on my skin. When I get down to brass tacks about it, the cream didn't even moisturize enough for my dry skin, so I was forced to move on to another product.

My current favorites for my own sensitive skin? CeraVe Cream is what I turn to when my skin is so irritated that everything else hurts. The bulky 16oz container doesn't pretend to be luxurious, but the cream itself soothes and moisturizes my skin into submission. This cream uses a patented time release technology that delivers moisturizers throughout the day. It not only hydrates, but helps skin attract and retain moisture, and helps to rebuild the skin's protective barrier. (BTW, I'm currently testing CeraVe's newest moisturizer, an AM version with SPF and anti-aging superstar niacinamide- review to follow, you can be sure!)

I'm also a big fan of Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum (though, Olay, could you have picked a more redundant name?) and Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair. Both work as nice moisture boosters and provide great anti-oxidant protection. Lauder's ANR has a ton of the moisture magnet hyaluronic acid, while Olay's Regenerist boasts wrinkle fighting peptides and niacinamide.

Allure's Best Tweezers: Tweezerman Slant Tweezers

The platinum standard. Enough said. If you don't have a pair, go get some, NOW. Yes, they're $20, but they'll be the last pair of tweezers you'll ever have to buy (Literally. Tweezerman offers free lifetime sharpening.) Fair warning: do not be tempted to get the point tweezers, they're deadly!

So, that's it...there's my red-carpet blah-blah about what I think the best and brightest are (and aren't). There's a good chance you'll disagree with me on some points, or have your own opinions on some of the other 224 products featured in the issue. So...go grab the October Allure and come back to weigh in!

Some recommended products featured in this post were initially submitted for review consideration by a representative of the company. What does this mean? I may not have paid for it. My commitment is to you, my readers, and myself (it's called integrity, I like to have it). I can assure you that the opinions expressed on OutInAPout are my own, based on my own research and experience; I am not paid in any way nor is the final outcome of the post in any way influenced by the featured company.

Product Review:Make Up For Ever HD Invisible Cover Foundation

If you're at all interested in makeup (of course you are, why else would you be here?) then it's fair to assume you've at least heard of Make Up For Ever's highly praised HD Foundation. Touted as a holy-grail product for many women, French makeup masters Make Up For Ever created this formula to meet the demands of actors and actress in this new age of high definition. The idea is to make the skin look flawless, but still look like skin.

With 25 shades in the range, I was hopeful that I'd be able to find a perfect match for my exceedingly fair, warm toned skin. Alas, this prospect disappeared when I learned that the lightest 3 shades in the HD range have cool undertones (mini-rant: Why can't makeup lines realize that not all pale people have pink skin? Honestly, even those that do have pink undertones often look best in a yellow based makeup- give us pale ivories some options!) One glance at the lightest warm shade (117-Marble) told me that it was too deep to be an option. I did a quick test swipe and decided on- surprise- the fairest option available, 110-Pink Porcelain. (The line does have a fairer shade, 107-Pink, but I've been unable to find it.)

Though MUFE recommends a flat, nylon brush, I had read review upon review suggesting a stippling brush, so I whipped out mytrusty MAC 187 brush and prepared to be amazed. When I applied the foundation to my skin, I was thrilled to find that the shade was a decent match. Unfortunately, my skin still has quite a bit of color from the cruise I went on back in April- if I wanted to wear this foundation in the winter, I would most certainly have to hunt down the 107-Pink shade.

The HD foundation is described as a medium/full coverage makeup with a natural, radiant finish. While it is oil free, it does include several moisturizing ingredients, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types. Despite this, my first impression was that it looked quite matte on me. My skin does tend to be dry, but it is not lacking in luminosity, and I felt like this foundation gave me a dull, lifeless look. I also noticed immediately that it emphasized my expression lines, especially the ones around my mouth (you know, the ones dermatologists affectionately call "marionette lines"). While the Invisible Cover is not the only makeup that I have had this issue with, I did not expected it to be a problem since Make Up For Ever specifically claims that the HD Foundation does not accentuate wrinkles. Sadly, the way that I looked after applying the foundation had me seriously considering Restylane- odd, considering that the lines aren't even visible when my face is clean.

I really wanted to like this foundation. How could so many people love it so much? There had to be something I was missing. I experimented with various methods of application: different brushes, with and without primer, etc...and, low and behold, found that I liked the finish much better using a flat, synthetic foundation brush like the one MUFE suggests. This type of brush seemed to work the product into my skin better, whereas my softer, fluffier 187 brush left the makeup lying on top of my skin, imparting an unnatural mask-like effect. When I applied the makeup with my 187 brush, it gave, at best, medium coverage- it evened my skin out, but did little for imperfections. Layering the makeup in an attempt to achieve fuller coverage just resulted in a cakey, pore exaggerating effect. However, after I discovered that I preferred my flat brush, I realized that the HD foundation could indeed give natural looking full coverage, even without the aid of concealer.

I give this foundation a 5.5 out of 10. The formula felt good on my skin, stayed on relatively well, and, unlike some foundations that are designed for photography, it looked just as good in person with full sunlight as it did in a flash photo. While I would say it is a good foundation overall, there are other brands and formulas touting a smaller price tag that seem just as good.

Pros:
-Wide shade range available (25 shades)
-Long wear
-Non-drying
-Photographs well
-caused no irritation to my sensitive skin

Cons:
-Limited availablity; additionally, not all shades are available at all retailers.
-settled into and accentuated fine lines
-most shades in the range are pink/beige based
-price ($40) seems a bit inflated given the average performance of the makeup.

A Key to Color Correctors

If you've been foundation shopping lately, you may have noticed something strange next to your typical ivories, beiges and mochas. Little vials of yellow, lilac, rose, and the always shocking green can only mean one thing- color correctors are back on the menu for those looking to transform not-so-perfect skin.

If you're not sure if you need a color corrector, then you probably don't. These products are best for those with prevalent discoloration, such as those with extreme redness caused from rosacea. Though certain shades of correctors are made to simply enhance skin or add a glow, I'll stick to the tricky ones.

Yellow is best for balancing out overly rosy skin, whether natural or reactive- like a flush or slight sunburn. Those that are just a touch rosier than they'd like may enjoy some of the new yellow-toned powder formulations, which are less pigmented than cream correctors and therefore easier to blend, but you can also balance pink skin tones by simply choosing yellow toned (often called "golden" or "warm") foundation. Yellow tones are also used to brighten dark complexions without creating ashiness.

If you're more than just rosy, such as those afflicted with rosacea, broken capillaries, or severe acne, green might be just what you need. While it may seem intimidating, new primer based formulations (like the ones from Smashbox and Make Up For Ever) go on sheer, so they're much more forgiving than their ancestors. Use sparingly (if you apply this color to even toned areas it will appear green) and always follow with foundation and concealer.

Pink, Lilac and Mauve tones reduce sallowness (grayish yellow tones), and brighten olive skin tones. Most lines carry both a pink and a light purple tone- some call it lilac, some mauve. The pink correctors are more subtle, they're best for balancing and brightening olive toned complexions. The mauve/lilac tones are better suited for true sallowness more common to certain ethnicities.

Color correctors can be a godsend to those who have complexion issues that simple foundation and concealer won't cover, but it's important to remember that uniqueness is beautiful too- I would never tell somebody they need to "correct" anything that they don't see as a flaw. For some, however, it is nice to know that the option is there.

Foundation Primer: Do You Really Need One?

In the last 10 years or so, a new product has emerged on the makeup scene. As "professional" lines like MAC, Make Up For Ever and Smashbox have gained popularity, foundation primer has become a much recommended addition to the home kit. The question is, what does it do, and do you really need it?

Foundation Primers are most commonly gel-like potions designed to be applied before you put on your face makeup, as the name would imply. They claim rather vaguely to prep your face for a perfect, glowing finish. Depending on the brand, you'll see claims of velvety smoothness, reduction of the appearance of pores, fine lines, even scars. They say makeup glides on better and will stay on better. Despite all the varying claims, at their core, all foundation primers are pretty much the same. Sad, considering they can be priced anywhere from about $8.00 to $60.00

Primers are generally composed of a blend of silicone derivatives. Those most commonly used are Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Used as emollients, they create a barrier to help hold moisture in the skin. This barrier is also water resistant, and imparts a matte look to the skin- great for those with oily skin whose makeup melts off midday. Because of the chemical composition of these ingredients, they sit on top of the skin, and can act as a temporary "filler" to smooth out fine lines, large pores, even things like acne scarring.

Some primers employ light reflecting ingredients that act as tiny mirrors, bouncing light away from problem areas. You may have even seen the newest incarnation in the primer market- primers that are tinted with odd colors like green, yellow or violet. These products are certainly not a new idea, they're just more user-friendly versions of the color correctors that pros have been using for years to reduce redness or add tone to overly sallow or pallid complexions. (My next post will fill you in on color correctors, so stay tuned!)

So, primers do much of what they claim. The thing you need to know is that you may already be using a product that does the same thing. Many serums and anti-aging products have the same silicone-based ingredients that primers do; they too fill in problem spots like large pores and fine lines. Using a primer over these products would not only be unnecessary, but it could actually cause your makeup to "roll". If you've ever put your makeup on and had it literally ball up as you apply (or thought your skin was peeling off, but saw no flakiness when you washed your face) you may have experienced silicone overdose.

Likewise, most primers that promote anti-aging benefits have the same basic antioxidants that any good treatment serum or moisturizer would, like retinyl palmitate (vitamin A), tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), or ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Some do have higher-end botanicals, moisturizers or anti-aging ingredients, but chances are, if you're willing to shell out an extra $50 for primer, you're probably already using skin care treatments that contain them.

If you're plagued by large pores, oily skin or need a color-correcting product, primers can be useful, provided you're not using a skin care product that contains the same ingredients. If you're thinking of a primer for it's anti-aging properties, check out a treatment serum that contains one of the silicone-based ingredients listed above; chances are they'll have a higher concentration of the anti-aging ingredient and you'll be much more likely to notice results.